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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 5:06 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 5:44 pm
Posts: 721
Location: Reno NV
Car Model:
Just picked up an 87 Ram 100 with the 225/833 od combo.

Sometimes if I hold the clutch too long it will stick to the floor,and I have to pump it a bit to get it back up. WOuld this be a slave cyl problem? Or maybe just dirty fluid? The fluid is very dirty,how do I change it?

Thanks
Jared


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 6:39 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
It sounds like if you're not loosing fluid the clutch master cylinder is leaking internally. To change the fluid you suction as much as you can out of the reservoir, fill it with clean fluid and bleed the system until all the old fluid is gone.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:21 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Is there a bleeder somewhere in the system Josh? This is my first 4 speed with a hydro clutch so bear with me. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
You couldn't find a bleeder? I know some of the later ones are sealed. Maybe yours is too?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 8:18 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Darn :? I couldnt find one. How are you supposed to bleed the system when you replace the master/slave on a truck with a sealed system?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:01 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:38 pm
Posts: 878
Location: Boulder City Nevada
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My first experence with a sealed system I was dumb founded. I too was looking for a bleeder. Found from the manufacturer just to keep pumping the pedal and it self bleeds. Must have pumped that thing a 100 times before the pedal came up to normal. Just a thought.


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 Post subject: bleed
PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:07 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:07 pm
Posts: 284
Location: indiana
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hello jared. of the few hydraulic clutches i've worked on (none of them dodges) i have found sometimes the best thing to do is fill with fluid, then walk away for a couple hours and let it "gravity bleed". i recall having to let one sit overnight before the air bubbles all worked their way out.

andy.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:37 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Andy-

Thanks for the tip. I cant seem to find any leaks,so I am going to suck out as much fluid I can with a vacuum pump and replace with new and see if that helps. If not im thinking the master might be bad :?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:44 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 5:44 pm
Posts: 721
Location: Reno NV
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I wanted to give an update. I recently changed the master and slave cylinder in my truck. I wish I would have done this sooner! It only took me 45 mins,and that was with me taking my time,and mostly messing with my radio to find the right "working on truck" tunes hahaha :lol:

It is a sealed system,but it was pretty easy to bleed.

Install the master cyl and reservoir,fill the res. half full. Take the slave cyl, tilt it at a 45* angle and pre fill it before installing. It helps to shake it a bit when filling it to get the bubbles out. after installing the line into the slave,and installing the roll pin, hold the slave below the master (hehehe) and pump it slowly by hand,watching the res. for bubbles.

Make sure to keep the res. half full at all times,fill an necessary during the bleeding procedure. After you dont see anymore bubbles,install the slave to the shift fork, fill res. 3/4 full,put the cap on and pump the clutch pedal repeatedly until you have a firm pedal,recheck the fluid level and walla you are done! It took me longer to type this than it did to replace the master/slave :D


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