Hi SlantsixDan,

OK, I'm getting the picture now. I did find a 1970-71 electronic voltage regulator from a 1970 Valiant (slant six) I used to own. Perhaps that one will work? Are these OE regulators the same for all slant sixes, 1970 onward?

For the ground loop, do I just bolt the line from the alt and battery to where the voltage regulator is grounded to the firewall?

Thanks for the offer on the regulator, I may just take you up on that.

brian

The OE one I have looks like item 77R06285 or 77R06286 at this web page (http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/emblems.html). I tried to paste a picture but couldn't get it to work.

b

Only if you install a different kind of alternator and alter the charging system wiring. The '70-up regulator does not interchange with the '69 and earlier regulator without such modifications.
Yes.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Welcome to the forum! You have a fun car there, and one which will give you good service and lots of hobby enjoyment as well.

You can learn a great deal about your engine's performance with a VOM (volt ohm meter). They are cheap now, and you should have one. The old wiring and connectors are a terrible source of voltage drop off in these old Mopars. With a wiring diagram in hand, start at the alternator 12+ and check the voltage along the entire charge and ignition circuits. Put the red lead on the wire connector and the black one to a good ground somewhere. If you find voltage drops along the way, this is very bad. It should read 13.5 or so at the 12+ connection on the back of the alternator. Continue on to the battary and see if it is reading the SAME voltage. If not, the connectors, wires and maybe the ammeter are sources of resistance that are hurting your performance.

My experience with this exact same thing was that when I changed over to a Mopar Orange box ignition on my '69, performance got worse. Suprise! These parts came from the dealer, new. That is when I started checking out the integrity of the wiring with a VOM. Almost all of it was bad. 13.5 became 11.5 by the time it got to the high end of the ballast resistor. And with the old Mopar alternator, which did not put out 13.5 volts at idle, things got bad real fast.

When I replaced all the wiring in the charge/ignition system, including the blue wires to and from the regulator, my gas mileage went from 13 to18 MPG. Honest. No fooling. The wiring is that important. I installed new wires, new soldered connectors, new bulkhead connectors, and before it was done, bypassed the ammeter and installed a volt meter hanging under the dash. It was all done a wire at a time, and took the better part of a month to do.

Of course now, all that stuff is gone and replaced with more modern stuff. But the old stuff works much better with good wires and connectors.

Good luck. Don't be afraid to stick your head under the hood and get some grease under your finger nails. You will have fun, feel a real sense of accomplishment, learn something and eventually improve your ride.

Sam

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Hi SlantsixDan,

I installed the ground loop and tried a new (likely Chinese made) replacement voltage regulator. This seemed to help some, but still there is some rough idle issues. I did find a few wires were loose where they entered the female connector. I replaced some of these connectors.

Now, my alternator gauge seems to be showing no charging. Did I fry my alternator somehow? Can you send me a VR-128? I'll gladly pay you for it. You can text or call me at 510.299.4791 and I'll give you my address.

I'd like to try the VR-128 and please let me know if you think I've fried my alternator. I noticed that when I first hooked up the new ground loop and voltage regulator, it was running a bit rough. One of the wires to the ballast resistor was loose so I replaced that as well, this seemed to smooth it out but still there is a bit, so perhaps there is another bad wire somewhere. I'm sure the ground loop is making good contact. Any ideas why I'm not showing charging? Perhaps the newer voltage regulator is incompatible? The alt needle is in the negative range, and when I turn on the head lights it goes down further, so it seems like I'm no longer charging. Before I changed the voltage regulator, the alt gauge was reading solidly positive (perhaps a bit higher than normal) when the car was running, as if the cheapy regulator wasn't doing its job as you surmised. But now I have no charging...

thanks for any help,

b

I found a VR-128:

http://www.instantfinder.com/ad-Alterna ... 3068-.html

There is only one wire and one bolt, which wires go where?

Yeah, that link didn't work, can you send me one? Please call or text, 510.299.4791.

thanks,

b

+1
Also,check your head to firewall and your battery - to block earths,if you have them.

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