I think that I'm getting an oil leak from where the oil pump bolts on to the main engine block. My friend told me there is a gasket that goes between there and it may need to be replaced. ( I'm not sure if it's called the oil pump or oil filter adapter, but it's the part that my oil filter screws on to)

If I try to undertake replacing that gasket here are my questions:

-First where can I get a new gasket? (had no luck yet finding one)
-Is it best to remove the pump and replace the gasket when I do my upcoming oil change?
-Any special tools needed for the job?
-Anything else that I may need to be aware of before doing this so that I don't mess up an otherwise perfectly working oil pump?

My car is a 68' Dart 270, Slant six 3.7L 225

Thanks

The oil pump can not be removed while the engine is on the mounts. The engine will need to be lifted several inches at minimum. It will be a good idea to disconnect the exhaust pipe, and keep a close eye on linkages.
If you need to replace engine mounts, this would be the time.

If you have tightened the oil pump plate bolts, (The small ones on top,) the O-Ring under the plate has likely failed. That's a more likely leak location. The plate can be removed to replace the O-ring with the engine in it's normal location.

Sources would be just about any reputable auto parts store. NAPA, Carquest, and so forth. You can get the gasket from Rockauto, if you can tolerate the shipping. (Not enough savings on a part this cheap to justify the shipping.) The gasket is listed for ~78¢. (Just looked.)
They apparently don't have the O-Ring.

2¢

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Take carb cleaner, then brake clean to clean the area off.

Then look where the leak is coming from.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Vote # 2 on confirming the actual leak point prior to doing any work...
Check the oil pressure sending unit, I've seen those leak right out the terminal end.
DD

This is all rather new to me, so where exactly do I look for the plate bolts ..as you call them?

Thanks

I hope to try to confirm the leak, but it is definitely coming from this general area.
As I said before, I'm still learning about all these parts. So I would like to check the oil pressure sending unit but I not sure where it is and how to go about the process. I seem to get good normal pressure while driving but then again I'm not too sure what constitutes "normal". When I first start up a cold engine my oil pressure gauge usually takes about 3 seconds for it's needle to jump up ..but I guess that's normal too? It only does it with a cold start.

That sending unit can be found under the casting that the oil filter screws into facing the fire wall. There will be a wire attached to the end of it.

Oil pressure relief valve is in same general area behind a large nut. You will find a piston & spring in it. Remove and carefully clean the piston with brake or carburetor cleaner, polish with crocus cloth to remove any burs if needed, but do not scratch, or file sharp edges at its ends.

Make sure you are using an oil filter that has a stand pipe in it if your oil filter base does not have the pipe. This prevents oil drain-back when engine is off which may be causing a lack of oil pressure on start up.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

3 seconds is fine.

KISS keep it simple! Check all the obviously easy stuff first. Like a loose filter.

Those gaskets don't just leak. 30 year old pressure senders do!

Why in the heck are we talking about a relief piston? KISS!

Get some books dude.......

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

This may be dumb question but if my oil filter base ( where I screw in the filter) does have the pipe, what would that look like? Would there be a protruding pipe coming up from the base that could be easily identified?

I didn't see anything that looked like a built-in pipe ( but I may have simply not identified it ) so I've been using a Wix 1806 oil filter

I did switch in the late summer to a Rotella 10w-30 T5 synthetic blend, and it seems fine, any thoughts about using this type of oil?

I've read some on this forum about the relief piston, but I'm not familiar w/ the pressure senders. Where are they located and are they easily checked and/or replaced? Thanks

I have been running the Rotella 10-30 blend in my Corolla. I was told it smoked before due to valve guides or seals. I haven't seen that on start up.

I don't think they list the ratio of exactly how much synthetic it has.

Diesel oil has lots of detergents in it.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Never mind I know where the sender is .. found it.

One or two sloppy oil filter changes will make quite a mess around oil pump area.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC