Had an odd thinng happen today the amp gauge in our 63 valiant stated to flicker , pulse back and forth between the 0 amp mark and the next mark on the graduation of the gauge, these old gauge don't have numbers on them just , D on the left side, a mark in the center and C on the right, so it seem to be constantly charging and as i increase the reves the charge goes up, we have a new battery less than 6 month old, I have put i a new regulator on the fire wall last year and not a cheap one either and the alternator seem to be putting out a constant 13v charge according to my multimeter, should i be worried??RAY

Some amp gage needle swinging between D & C at in gear idle with head lights & heater fan on if normal, but once rpm hits 700 or so this should stop as the alternator is able to make enough juice at this point. A big swing is not normal. Check voltage output while amp gage is osculating. There are only three suspects in the charge circuit battery, voltage regulator, and alternator.

I suspect that voltage regulator is acting up, as this is about the only device that can cycle voltage + & - between battery, second guess would be alternator starting to fail.

First check voltage differential between voltage regulator’s chassis and battery’s negative post. Reading should show zero voltage to a few 100th of a volt, much more than that indicates a voltage drop, and needs to be corrected. It would be a good idea to run a ground loop with #14 gage wire from voltage regulator to spark controller, to alternator case, and back to negative post at battery. Make up a grounding harness with clamp on eyes of correct size to fit screws holding these items to car. Once each device has a good ground and is electrically the same you will be able to better test each component.

Secondly check all connections in charge circuit for corrosion and looseness, pay particular attention to bulkhead connector which is generally a hot bed of bad connections. Also, with battery disconnected, make sure amp gage connections are tight.

13 volt charge is a bit low when engine is running, 13.4 V to 14 V would be closer to normal depending on temperature (see FSM for correct charge voltages), this could be a result of voltage regulator not seeing proper voltage in system for whatever reason.

Recently I installed an electronic regulator( vr-128, or vr-1001, I don’t recall which) including a competent ground loop on my Dart, it worked for close to a year when suddenly this summer the amp gage would spike on full charge at will, and alternator would emit a wheezing sound as if it were working hard. After a few seconds to 20 seconds it would snap out of its fit, and the system would return to normal. After a bunch of tests, I determined that the Voltage Regulator had a bad case of mental illness, and replaced it. So don’t discount a recently replaced device as good.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ray,another thing you can check is the connections where the red and black wire connect to the back of the amp gauge.
Make sure these are tight,if they are loose it can cause the flickering as well.
There should be a black insulating spacer on each terminal,make sure these aren't cracked as well as this could cause the wires to be shorting out on the back of the instrument cluster.
Make sure you voltage regulator is grounded properly to your firewall,ie,scratch some paint off to get a good earth.
Do you have points or electronic ignition ?

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

Yeah have checked the wires on regulator and it s earth good, not had a cjhance to pull the gauges out as yet, I have put in a Electronic ignition out of a Hemi and did the wiring corrections for this, RAY

Ahh may have found the culprit, the purple wire to the regulator has gotten hot and the plastic has melted in some spots although i can not figure out why this happened in the first place looks to be an old problem because the copper wire is dull and oxidised brown if it was recent I assume the copper would be brighter, RAY

Time to replace the wire. I did the entire engine harness, one wire at a time. Curred the problem.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

oh god the whole wiring harness! maybe I should be looking for one? RAY

Ted said: Singular, start with the one wire that is faulty, replace more of them if needed.

I also replaced about forty percent of my harness one conductor at a time, as well as all the brass connections at bulkhead connector. Electrically the car has been very reliable since that project.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

raycycled,

It is very easy to do and well worth it. Our auto parts store had new block/bulkhead connectors and I bought each color wire needed. To complete the entire harness took about 2.5 hours including some soldering after crimping and wrapping the new bundle. Most of the wires were less than 40". I also ran some automotive wire conduit to protect the new harness. It is much easier than you think. Just unplug the harness which is behind the valve cover at the fire wall, put it on your bench or table and replace one wire at a time.

To take a look at the finished job, click on the red link below.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted
Our 63 Valiants don't have the bulk head connectors,our wiring just goes straight through the firewall.But i agree with you about re wiring the system.
I pulled a complete harness out of a 65 wreck i have,not good,i guess all that wiring is 40+ years old now.
Ray,
Are you looking at the right wiring?
You say the purple wire is fried,the two wires to the regulator are dark blue and green.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

I suspect the blue wire got hot enough to turn purple. I also suspect it got hot because the crimp on connector had corrosion and high resistance. I am supporting all those folks who are saying replace wires. Your car will run better, and you will feel a real sense of accomplishment.

I known you know this, but just a reminder, unhook the battery when doing any work on the wiring, especially under the dash.

Bill, what is the spark controller?

Sam

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I should have said orange box, and assumed that a conversion may have taken place.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks.

Sam

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