After a night of pushing, shoving, blood, and finally a at 330 am.. Ive got to ask.

IS THERE ANY TIPS ON DROPPING IN A SLANT 6?

Ive got her almost in but the rear of the engine keeps buggin up on the firewall and not allowing me to push it back anymore to line up the motor mounts.

I got one side on (drivers) but now looks like ive gotta get the passenger side first and ease in the drivers?

Im also going to the store for a longer chain. Maybe give me more flex to manuver the motor...

Please. Im desperate at this point. My firewall has some new dents and im about to bring out a BFH.......

Is this engine going onto an automatic or manual trans? (some installation differences)
DD

manual tranny is connected to to motor and is being dropped in with the engine. Ive got the tail shaft of the tranny on a small jack for leveling as well..

What vehicle? Did you remove the radiator to give yourself a little more clearance? If you have sandwich style motor mounts, is one incorrectly oriented?

65 Valiant 4 door. Yes the radiator is out.. Everything is out... Engine bay is empty...

- Is the correct oil pan on the engine? (60-66 A-Body)
- Raise the vehicle to get more room between the floor and vehicle.
- Also try turning the steering, to get more room between the centerlink & firewall.
DD

Ive got her pretty high in the air right now.. Ill try more though..

Also, im running a chain from top motor mount bolt to top motor mount bolt.. Is there any easier way to hook up the engine to the hoist for more clearance/ manuverablity?

-Yes the oil pan is original.. Everything besides internals is original.

I will try the steering as I havent done that yet.

use the 3/8 boltholes in top of head, along manifolds....with trans on you want front and back ones

Let me ask you this, would these said boltholes be the ones the intake manifold bolts on to? This would give it the 30 Degree slant.. But want to be sure before I put all the motors weight on those bolt holes. Ive got new studs that fit perfect in those holes so that is do able.

Or

Are they boltholes on TOP of the head?

Sorry for all the questions but this is my first slant 6 drop and my helping hands are leaving soon and without them....

Yes these are the tapped holes on the top of the head, between the manifolds and valve cover.

Richard

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I actually jack the rear-end up and leave the front end quite a bit lower if stabbing the "whole" enchilada in...works in the late A-bodies, the early ones are a little different.

Good Luck.

-D.Idiot

I used the two 3/8's holes with just the engine ( I left trans in the car) and other than getting the dowel pin to line up into the engine it pretty much slipped right in.

_________________
64 dart GT /225
...........____ .
...._n_.[____].
..@\...\=| |....
....\.\...\ //....
.....L\....\......
.......\____\....

This thread has been incredibly instructive. The moral of the story here is, quite frankly, take your transmission off before you remove your engine.

I only say this because I'm about to do a rebuild. I had been warned about the reinstall, but I think the transmission is key in here. Less room for error.

_________________
63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.

Having done just the engine by its self I think i would actually rather drop the engine and trans in together than try to mate them in the car unless you install the trans from the bottom in my case I never pulled the trans so I had to wrestle it around on its mounts to get it to mate to the engine.

_________________
64 dart GT /225
...........____ .
...._n_.[____].
..@\...\=| |....
....\.\...\ //....
.....L\....\......
.......\____\....