Hi,

I'm likely getting my engine rebuilt over the next month, and I'll have a week where my engine bay is empty. During that time period, I'll be upgrading to the Scarebird kit on the front brakes.

I'm also looking at front end rebuild kits, as I know I need the work done. My problem is a friend of mine is saying "I've done a lot of stuff, but front end has been something I always avoided."

The problem here? He's WAAAAYYYY more mechanically experienced than me.

So my question is: Does this job have a high degree of difficulty?

Also, what tools are "must-haves" when you're doing a job like this?

I'm looking at just the minor kits, with the Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends and bushings.

Thanks!

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63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.

I've done a couple of complete and a couple of minor rebuilds, and though it's not simple, it's not beyond a shadetree mechanic's ability. The main thing is to have the right tools. I bought a set that included everything I needed except the ball joint socket and picklefork, which I bought individually. Total cost for everything was near $200. You will also need an impact wrench.

If you don't want to invest in tools, you can probably borrow or rent them from your auto parts store. My local O'Reilly store has everything needed.

After you are done, you will need a wheel alignment.

If you don't mind skinned knuckles, filthy work and crawling around on concrete...go for it.

It is not particularly difficult technically, however some of the parts may resist your advances after almost fifty years of service.
You will need the factory service manual, a bushing removal tool, something that can be rented from a parts store, or made out of a few plumbing fittings, threaded rod, fender washers, and nuts.
Your biggest challenge will be replacing the lower control arm bushing. You may have to have a shop perform the task, but the rest of it is penetrating oil and knuckle busting. Reassembly goes much easer.

Remove upper ball joint while upper control arm is installed. It screws out, sometimes a large pipe wrench will do the job.
Tip removing torsion bar:
Back off large nut securing lower control arm after unloading torsion bar by its adjusting bolt located between legs of lower control arm. Don’t forget to remove clips securing torsion bar at cross brace under front seat. Torsion bars are clocked left & right, as well as upper control arms so don’t mix them up. Also do not score or damage torsion bar, doing so will compromise its longevity.

Torque all fasteners to factory specifications when reinstalling parts.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The job isn't technically difficult, but as has been mentioned, you MUST have the right tools. The only really special tools you need are the correct size upper ball joint socket, a tool to remove the torsion bars, and a press and the right jigs and adapters to press out the upper and lower bushings. I bought the right upper ball joint socket ($23 for A socket!) and I made a torsion bar removal tool out of two block of wood, four pieces of all-thread, and some washers and nuts.

Get a factory service manual for your car and follow the directions. It isn't that bad.

The bushings can be difficult. I used the rebuild of the suspension on my brother's Duster as an excuse to buy a shop press and some fittings.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks, everybody. I'll mull it over in the next month. I'll also find out what O'Reilly has that I can use.

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63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.

Good advice, all. Note: There are three different sockets specifically for Mopar ball joints. The smallest of the three fits the pre-73 A-body, The middle fits the 73 & later A-bodies as well as B & Cs. The largest one is for the old body-on-frame Imperial and some trucks.

I picked up the small one from a Snap-On Tools truck and the middle size one I got off of e-Bay. I haven't needed to use an impact wrench to remove a ball joint. The upper ball joint sits in a pocket in the control arm that tends to get filled with mud. It needs to be cleaned out as much as possible for the socket to sit properly on the joint. Once I've gotten the clean up finished, I give it a blast of KROIL and let it soak a while. I come back with the socket, a 30" breaker bar and a 4' cheater bar to provide extra leverage. The socket sometimes slips off the ball joint, so make sure you have a safe landing area.

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White

you can do it. just go slow, take lots of pictures, have the factory manual on hand. i have a small ball joint and large ball joint socket i could let you borrow if you live in my area (los angeles, ca). I bought a couple of pickle forks from Harbor Freight and they did the job alright, i also bought a bearing puller from them ($30 total for those).

i have the scarebird setup on my car, here's a link to my assembly.
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... =scarebird

I'm 26 and pretty much self taught. The key is to research and read as much as you possibly can before you start the project. Get under the car and just look at it, talk yourself through the disassembly and reassembly. Write down the tools and parts you will need. Write out your own set of instructions also. The last thing anyone wants to do is run to the parts store on a saturday afternoon in the middle of a project. Your time is valuable.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Oh contraire, there’s nothing better than a short road trip after pounding & cussing all morning while dissembling suspension parts . LOL

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

So VBW, just wanted to thank you for posting the Scarebird stuff. It'll be my model when I get to work on this.

I appreciate the encouragement.

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63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.

I am probably a little late, penetrating oil I found useful when working on my front suspension. And a breaker bar, and a sledge hammer (stopped me from having to get a pickle fork etc).

Did you ever do the rebuild?