Hi Guys!
I have a pretty weird "little" issue with my truck.
I recently replaced brake lines, calipers and pads in front and shoes on rear.
After bleeding I couldn't build pressure and replaced the Master cylinder as well. After bench bleed of Master, a series of failed bleeds (no pressure) I did a gravity bleed on the system. I finally got to build some "pedal" and started the engine. Nice whooshing sound and the pedal goes to the floor?? And no brakes but a little on the rear.. No, here is why it's posted in the Engine section and where I'm hoping for some engenious and inspired thoughts from you lot.
Pumping the brakes with the engine running. It sputters and stalls AND WILL NOT START AGAIN?!?!

My wife turned the key while I sprayed some carb cleaner in the carb and it starts, so it's not electrical I think..

I get cross eyed and mind twisted looks from mechanic friends when I tell them my predicament.

I don't have to worry about emission tests so I recently replaced the whole exhaust from manifold and back without cats. The smog pump has been disconnected a long time ago by previous owner, but the rest of the leanburn stuff is still there. Considering a HEI conversion and a carb replacement, I know there is a ton of stuff on this in here, but I can't seem to get a comprehensive overview of what to do. The HEI I could probably figure out, but which carb to go with (Holley 1920?) and do I eject carbon canister and what to do with distributor with a carb switch (vacuum advance and such).
My wish is to get the truck to be a reliable daily driver.

Thanks for any help with this guys!

Torkil

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1985 Dodge d150 Utiline (Stepside)

Time to take a hard look at the power brake booster and its control valve and hose.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Dan!
Thanks!
Yes, the hose is fine, the check valve is replaced and working.
The power booster might be the culprit... But does that explain a "killed" engine? The power booster is next in line. And after that the proportionary valve (hopefully not.. hard to find).

Torkil

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1985 Dodge d150 Utiline (Stepside)

Yes, Tork...the booster could very well be the culprit. It uses vacuum from the engine to assist your human effort at applying the brakes. If the rubber diaghram ruptured, it may very well be allowing air through and into the engine, leaning it out to the point of not being able to run.

Your description of the "nice whosshing sound" is what I (and I think Dan) thinks is a pretty good indicator.

Roger

Thanks Roger!
I had suspected that too, I thought the check valve in the booster which I replaced would take care of that. But just in case, I took the hose of the manifold and blocked it's seat in the manifold so it wouldn't leak. It still wouldn't start. But than I guess I might have messed with the "balance" of the vacuum system making it not start..?

Tork

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1985 Dodge d150 Utiline (Stepside)

No, if you blocked off the vacuum tap for the booster and it still won't start, you've got other, non-brake-related problems. Check for parts and hoses knocked askew in the course of R&Ring stuff under the hood.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks again Dan!
I guess my first post should have been more thorough.
I did check all the vacuum hoses and seatings for leaks after it stalled too..

I sucked on the hose to the power booster and it wouldn't build vacuum so I'm guessing that the booster is shot.

I guess my concern is not so much the brakes as getting the engine up and running again..

Torkil

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1985 Dodge d150 Utiline (Stepside)

Once you get the engine running again......I would not eject the carbon canister since it works well with the Holly 1945 and the 1920 carbs.

Click on the red link below my name to view my 1920 Economaster version that was used on Taxi cabs (68-72). It has the same fuel vent lines for the vapor canister.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted, let's keep it real, dawg! There is still no such thing as the "1920 Economaster carb that was used on taxi cabs". Economaster carbs were never installed as original equipment — not even on taxi cabs. You're right about the charcoal canister, though; it should not be "ejected" or removed. When we know more about this truck (year, emission system, etc.) and the emission tests has to pass wherever it happens to be registered, it will be easier to make recommendations for or against particular modifications.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,

Ok I didn't know that......... I was restating the information I copied down from the carb repair and parts ordering manual at Joe's Carb Rebuild Shop, in Lynnwood, Washington. They let me pull quite a few part numbers and old history from the shop manuals. I was trying to figure out why it had a #53 jet in it with the larger bore. I got the carb brand new.

The key point of my comment is that the charcoal canister will and does connect to the older Holley 1920 carbs. Reference the red link below my name to view photos.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ok Ted & Dan..
What do you guys need to know to help me apart from that it is a 1985 Dodge D150 utiline with (obviously) the slant six. It has the lean burn computer on the driver side inside fender, a disconnected (and seized) smog pump, a Holley 6145 carb, charcoal canister. A new exhaust without cats. It is registered in NY state, was by definition a "classic" by the start of 2010 and therefore does not have to pass emission tests anymore, only safety inspection...

I don´t know how applicable this would be for anyone else, but I would gladly make "retrofit" guide, step by step with pictures if it can help someone else who are up against a failing emission system.. which I suspect it is..

For all I know, maybe it´s even in here.
But, as I said, I´m failing to get a comprehensive overview.

I greatly appreciate any help!
Thanks guys!

T

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1985 Dodge d150 Utiline (Stepside)

BTW... SHould I go with a Holley 1920 or a 1945?
Upsides, downsides..
T

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1985 Dodge d150 Utiline (Stepside)

A thoughtfully-selected 1945 will be an easier, safer replacement than a 1920. I may still have a new one on the shelf; send me a PM.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ted: I think you might've got crossed up by the "taxi/fleet lean" carburetors that were installed on (gosh) taxicabs and fleet cars where fuel economy was of greater concern than performance. If you flip through a service manual for an applicable year you'll see these carbs' specs listed along with the rest of the carb specs. Typically the taxi/fleet lean carbs got smaller jets and smaller venturis. They didn't have any of the Economaster special features (annular discharge star-type booster venturi, gradient power valve, modified idle transfer slot, etc.). The Economasters were an aftermarket-only carb lineup released in late 1977.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,

That is good to know!
Thank you very much!

Are they still available? and from who?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG