My understanding is that roller lifters were first used for fuel economy reasons. Actually, that's not right. Packard and Buick among others used roller followers well before WWII. I think it got to the point that CAFE numbers were important enough to justify the additional cost of roller lifters. The zinc and phosphorous were taken out of oil later because it was poisoning catalytic converters and manufacturers were mandated to provide very long emissions warranties. It's not a problem to have those compounds in the oil if the engine isn't burning oil, but too many people are too lax on maintenance.

If we want a billet timing cover, actually a casting is fine, with the gerotor oil pump and a cam stop. Let's also have a removable section over the cam gear so we can change the installed centerline easily.

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Joshua

DD ran a re-grind roller cam back in the day that was nitrated. he removed it when he found it flaking, on his cuda.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

That's a good article, although I would add one more trick in the duration section. Most cams now have an .020 and an .050 duration...if you look at both durations between two cams they can "connect the dots" so to speak and help determine which cam has the steeper ramp if worried about the lobe opening profile and how fast you are looking to pop the valve off the seat and get it open.

-D.Idiot

Well I guess I will buy a stick of material this week and get started roughing out some blanks. One question, I am seeing a lot of what appears to be confusion on whether the rear cam journal should be drilled or grooved from another post regarding cam bearing interchange. I have a Purple Shaft cam as a model to work from and it is drilled thru the rear journal(don't know if its hydraulic or solid or if it really matters). So I guess the question is: Drill, not drill, or groove the rear journal.

Thanks.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

My understanding the grooved cams are for hydraulic and the drilled are for solid.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I would recommend groove. Groove allows more oil the the upper valve train, and is easier to do. With drilling, the two holes have to be exactly right, so they line up with the holes in the cam bearing. I groove all my cams, and several new replacement cams I have seen are also grooved.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I would second that, it's a better option than hoping that the cam blank was drilled correctly or hopefully drilled all the way through.

-D.Idiot

Ok guys thanks. I agree, grooving will be much easier than drilling.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Although the full groove is required with hydraulic lifters I believe you are better off with the metering holes with solids. The metering holes deliver more than enough oil to the rockers if the holes are drilled at the proper angle. Tom Drake and others had issues with the holes not lining up with the holes in the cam bearing but all the extra oil provided by the full groove just overloads the valve seals and increases windage losses when it drips back down. If you are going to invest $3000 in a valve train why not do it right? It is true than many billets now have the full groove just to simplify things but you can still find properly drilled blanks.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

I do have 3 unmachined cast steel blanks you could machine, if you have time.
Again, getting a good quality gear generated on any SL6 cam is the current "challenge" I see.
DD

Groove the journal and put a restrictor in the passage to the head?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The restrictor is a good solution, many 440's are done that way also.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I think I have the gear hobbing issue resolved, am waiting to hear back from 3 different sources now to see what kind of quantities they want to have to do it. I can tackle your castings once I get that sorted out.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

On my heads, I tap the oil passage, that comes up in the rear rocker stand. Then if I have too much oil, I can easily install a plug with a metering hole, by just removeing the rocker shaft. Havn't had to do a metering hole,yet.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225