Not sure if I should be posting this under suspension, but I feel it's driveline related.
I have also posted this on FABO to see if those blokes can come up with something. I know that some of you blokes aren't on FABO, so if you can come up with something just yell - thanks

G'day - looking for some help if you can advise me about a vibration.
Firstly it's a '63 Signet Vert.

Arrived Downunder early last year. I bought it in April and it needed some work.
Replaced the rear floors and repainted the interior.
Redid brakes and added booster.
Replaced rear uni joint (which was frozen) and repacked front uni joint.
Replaced all tie rods.
Tuned engine.

I have driven it maybe 8 or 10 times for short distances (less than 10 miles each time).

Last week I am heading out to get some fuel. Took it up to around 60 mph before arriving at fuel stop. Got fuel and headed home. At around 40 MPH I suddenly get a huge vibration. Stopped car did visual check of tyres and looked under. See nothing different. Got in and same thing - vibrations start at about 30 mph. Very violent - whole car shaking. Took it to a hill and coasted down in neutral - still there. No vibration when stationary and revving in park. I've looked under it and can't see anything amiss ... except this, the front of the oil sump is very (VERY) close to the K frame. This is a '63 car with a '65 reconditoned 225 slant. I looked at the engine mounts and they look buggered. I have ordered 2 new ones.

Does anyone have a suggestion, please?
Thanks for any help.

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Gary from Downunder
2 weeks ago I couldn't even spell mukanic - now I are one!

Try putting the rear on jackstands and running it up to 40+ MPH with the wheels off the ground, and see if vibe is still there. That would isolate it as drivetrain related.

Could also be a bent/broken rim, busted front wheel bearing or suspension piece...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Just a thought,, I went through this yesterday with a truck that was just purchased, Last week drove fine,went on a 80+mile trip and started to shake,the more I drove the worse it got. Did the jack stand thing all good.( the shaking was in the rear did not feel anything in the wheel) Pulled the wheels checked for bad tire, looks fine. Rebalanced tires and installed,same thing, the tires were dry so bit the bullet and popped for new ones. Problem solved. Old tires looked good but must have had internal belt shift or something.

Yup, here's another vote for the fault being in the wheel/tyre area. Sudden onset of the vibration suggests you might've lost a (large) wheel weight or a tyre may have had a belt separate.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thank you for the prompt replies.

I have to put this on hold for a couple of days - life just got in the way ... we have just been blessed with a beautiful little grandaughter. Cars now play 2nd fiddle.

Get back to you when things settle down ... thanks you blokes.
Gary

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Gary from Downunder
2 weeks ago I couldn't even spell mukanic - now I are one!

Congratulation!

The best thing about grand kid's is that you can fill them full of sugar, slip a couple of permanent markers into their pockets and send them home.

You know why grand kid's and grand parents get along so well?
A common enemy...

Enough of the jokes, treasure them well you can, they grow up so fast and become teenagers.

OK, little grandaughter's home from hospital - mother and babe doing fine!

NOW - BACK TO CARS!

I had time to check the car out (thank you all for your suggestions, it was the rear uni not seated quite right when I bolted it in (great mechanic!).

Still a small vibration which I think is in the Ball & Trunnion. I'll get it checked & balanced when I have time and it should be right.

Again, another /6 forum happy ending - thanks to all.
Regards
Gary

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Gary from Downunder
2 weeks ago I couldn't even spell mukanic - now I are one!

You can unbolt he B&T joint from the trans. Put one or two flat washers on each of the studs, and bolt the joint back in. Drive and see if it improves. I would not leave the washers in permanitly, but it positions the B&T housing into an unworn area, and can tell you if the housing needs replacing, or converting to a "normal" u-joint.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks - good suggestion.
Gary

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Gary from Downunder
2 weeks ago I couldn't even spell mukanic - now I are one!