You have the name of the parts correct, but if you motor is earlier then 1981, it will have solid lifters. Do the rocker arms have screws on them? If they do you have solid lifters, not hydraulics. As long as you kept the lifters on the same cam lobe, I would not change them unless you have some kind of a problem. I would not worry about the pushrods, either. You could just clean them with a wire wheel/brush, if the color (probably some surface rust, due to the condensation) bothers you.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

My last engine did the same thing last winter and I went chasing cracks and other issues, It was just the short 2mile trip to school in the morning and not driving it very far the rest of the time was the problem. Once i started letting the engine warm before I drove it and mae sure I got it good and hot everyday it was fine.

Kev

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I would not touch the lifters or pushrods, unless bent or damaged. Save your time/money for something else. If severly gunked up (more than 0.040" thick of gunk on pushrods or lifter tops) then just clean them in solvent and/or a wire wheel and reinstall. It is often better NOT to install new parts because they can be of unknown quality and why change something if it's working?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

+1

These days, many over the counter parts are garbage since most manufacturing has been outsourced to China, the land of NO quality concern, much less control.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks for the info. the rockers do have a hex screw on them for adjustment. lifters/rods were working fine before teardown. they are dirty/milked up and push rods are straight. Sounds like cleanup is best course and there are better things are out there to spend money and time on.......

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six

Just make sure that you put the lifters back onto the exact same camshaft lobe they came off of.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

can someone help me decipher what type block I can use for my '65 cuda should I need it? I have a "Leaky" suspicion.......

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six

Any block from 60-74 will work if you are just using the block and reusing the crank you have. If you are looking for another engine to swap in then 60-67,or any slant from 60-87 if you use an adapter in the crank to adapt to your stock transmission.

Thanks raPoM for the info on the block. My block number is 2463430-7. I bit the bullet. It's torn down, being cleaned and magnafluxed. Head was also magnafluxed after pressure test and came back good(again).

Will know soon enough what I'm in for on this. It could be looking for a block or just some parts to go back together with.

.....any repcommended sources for bearings and rings? my pistons are .040 over.

Thanks for all the help....will be likely asking for more.....you folks are great!