I found a pool of coolant on the passenger floor of my '72 Valiant. I replaced the heater core (new) and rebuilt the heater box about 3 years ago. Parts sure don't last long. I knew it was coming, could smell antifreeze especially when the heater was on. I may use this opportunity to try Evans waterless coolant but I need to find a heater core thats gonna last. Any recommendations.

Heater box is now out of the car. Dont seal up the box like you're never gonna open it again. I not only used the white putty string seal that came in the rebuild kit but silicone as well....well, clean up is gonna take a little longer. Will order rebuild kit this week and install new heater core next weekend, if all goes well. I decided to remove all rubber hoses, thermostat and waterpump. Will try Evans waterless coolant. If anyone recommends one heater core over another please let me know... Thanks, nick

Very tough to make a recommendation with the "race to the bottom" in terms of parts quality -- increasingly, no matter whose name is on the box you get a piece of Chinese garbage.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

afraid I was going to get that response....will probably pick one up from napa....thanks

This idea might not suit you.

You could go to wreckers and pull a heater core out of a newer car 90's? I've found some smaller size cores in good nick, possibly too large for your car though.

Also plenty of computer outlets that sell water cooling devices sell heater cores which are used to cool a CPU, with a few adjustments you could use these for your car if you get a decent one many are still made with copper piping and aluminium fins. - This was a reasonable alternative.

Hope this is of some help.

Why not have the old heater core rebuilt? Take it to a good radiator shop and the should be able to clean,rebuild and pressure test it for you.

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1964 Dart GT

then switch to Evan's! (I have never used it in a 4 cycle vehicle, but there is nothing better for 2-strokes!)

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1964 Dart GT

Umwhut? :shrug: How is that helpful at all? He could also grab a headlamp assembly off a '93 Ford Taurus. Where and how would you suggest he install it (or a likewise-incorrect-for-the-application heater core) on his car?

C'mon, let's try to keep our advice helpful and realistic, please.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well, it would work, IF he found the right one.
I think the problem with that is that the heater core is often hard to get to, so it would end up being a lot of work to find "the one" that could be made to work.

I know a vw passat heater core kinda fits in a 80's chevy malibu heater, with a small "spacer"

But still, it would be a lot of work to find something useful.

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I have no idea what I am talking about.

Locally some of the wreckers I have been too have heater cores on shelf; usually just a box with some of the most popular ones. or a yard full of some cars so bare that it wouldn't be too much of a hassle, not a few hours work for sure.

It's an alternative solution to get what I believe is a better quality product than a cheap imitation. For a small price and some hard work.

Sorry if this wasn't any help.

I appreciate the suggestions. I was able to find a heater core from a radiator shop thats been in business over 40 years but the NOS core that was on the high dusty shelf turned out to be the wrong one. His reply during our phone conversation was "yep, I think I have one of those, does yours have the long tubes on it?"......at any rate he ordered the right one and I was able to install it and button up the under dash part of the project.
Well, we have had very warm weather for this time of the year and a heater core job turned into a head gasket/ milled head and super 6 conversion. I have been collecting parts to make it happen and I couldn't resist. Disassembly went easy. One exhaust stud broke nearest the thermostat housing but amazingly all the rest stayed intact and the nuts came off one by one. The one behind the choke pocket required a 1/4" ratchet/extension and socket for access.
Now the engine block sits headless while I take my measurements and plan for a 9 to 1 compression ratio. I will be using a holley 2280 on a cast iron 2 barrel intake, one of the Chrysler NOS exhaust manifolds with a build date of 1995 and a rebuilt cylinder head which will be milled. I am going with a composite headgasket for reassembly just for insurance. So far so good, hope the weather stays this way and in a couple weeks I should have the Valiant running....it is without a doubt one of the funnest cars I have owned. I appreciate the guidance this site has provided! Once this daily driver is back and running I may just tackle the turbo upgrade on the Duster (parts and car waiting patiently).

Went to the local pharmacy and bought what I needed to CC the combustion chambers....paid $4.26.....hmmmm. I will get the measurements done on Saturay and the cylinder head gets milled monday!

CCed the combustion chambers.....crudely came up with an average of 59.3CCs, with the lowest being approx 58.5cc to the largest 60.5cc. Engine is a 225 will be using Felpro headgasket and will measure depth of pistons tomorrow. Shooting for about 9 to 1 compression. Will plug numbers in equation and find out the cut required. Any tips/advice welcomed...nick

Might as well match up the combustion chambers while your at it............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Where does it end? lol..... I thought about doing that Ed. I figure all the variables from the production tolerances to the thickness of the grease that I used to seal the plexiglass onto the head and the 20cc syringe that required filling three times for each chamber that I came up with some good numbers to use. I am going to use 59CCs for the chamber numbers and see what I come up with to calculate the head cut. Its a neat process to learn and perform.