I am planning to put sub-frame connectors (bolt on) and the.990 torsion bars on my 72 /6 Dart to improve the handling. I have a 340 drive train in the works for the future but would like to start with the handling now. Is this a good combo for a better handling car? and does it matter which one I do first?

Those T-bars will give a pretty stiff ride on the street, but may be about right for a 340 drivetrain. I have 0.920s on my '64 Dart and wouldn't want to go heavier on the street.

Also, you should weld in the frame connectors as the bolt in ones will have more play/flex.

Wide and low profile wheels/tires are the first priority, IMHO. Then I would get good shocks (like KYBs) and a big front sway bar before doing anything else. Make sure your rear springs are in good shape and put in Poly rear spring bushings for best handling.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Dart, I have been reading about the KYB's and like the sound of the Gas-a-Just. I was considering the bolt on frame connectors as this will be a street only car and I would like the option to return it to stock. My car is drum brake/small bolt pattern so would require later model LCA's to put a sway bar on the front, yes? As for wheels/tires I think I require the spring relocation kit for the rear as I only have about 7/8" tire to spring available now. Anyone else?

Aftermarket sway bars come with their own mounting tabs on the LCAs, so no worries there. You must have pretty big tires on there already. 245 wide tires will fit under any stock A-body w/o moving the springs as long as you get the backspacing right. Moving the springs in will tend to make handling worse, but I'm not sure how much you will feel.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It's just the stock steelies (14x5?) with 205/70 R14's on there now. I just went out and measured, I can comfortably go another 3" wider on the rear tire and that would be lots to give me the look I'm after without the relocation kit.

How do I go about determining the correct backspacing for the wider tires? Is it just trial and error (expensive!) or is there a way to measure and crunch some numbers before heading to the store?

Take the wheel off, and measure the perpendicular distance bewteen the spring pack and the surface of the drum/disc that the wheel physically rests on. Take that measurement, subtract 1/2" or so (or whatever clear spacing between rim/tire and spring you are comfortable with), and that is your max backspacing.

Keep in mind that if you get tires that are wider than the wheels, the sidewalls will 'bow out' past the wheel bead and possibly rub the springs

To figure out tire section width (max width, not necessarily tread width) for metric designated tires (most are) divide the first number by 25.4
E.G. A tire sized at 245/60R14 has a section width of approx 9.6 inches, a sidewall height of 5.8 inches, and a 14 inch rim (second number in the size is sidewall height as a percent of the tires' width).

-S/6

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The "Silver Bullet"
87 Ram D150

Best thing is to measure your backspacing now, and your clearances from the tire sidewalls to the outer fenderwell (on the inside) and to the spring, then make calculations from there. There are always risks, as tires/wheels may not be exactly what companies claim, or your measurements may be off, but you should be able to get very close.

You would be safe, I think, with 225 width tires and 7" rims with 4.25" backspace (factory Mopar offset).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I've got to second Lou's recommendation of sway bars, shocks, and tires as the most important handling mods on an A-body. The Addco front sway bar I put on my '66 really made it corner flatter without making the ride much harsher, and I'm considering putting a rear sway bar on it too (I've just got to see how it handles with 225/50R16 Yokohamas on all four corners first). Many books I've seen on handling advocate using the softest springs (or torsion bars) you can run at the ride height you want, using sway bars to control body roll. This makes for a car that not only rides more smoothly, but can better stick to rough pavement.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

All good info, thanks guys.