that is what i use for my oil pickup line it`s external, http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/20 ... good-times i am doing another base pan with a swing pickup for my street car.

that is a nifty idea!

Doug started it, I just hope i have it right,if so I am going to do all my pumps like this.

Fram?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

i have used them for years and never had a problem. with all that is said on this site i have tried napa gold, purulator and wix,i don`t see a different performance wise. i have cut them open and see there is some internal difference. if there good for john force????

My daughter had one collapse on a 3.1 Chevy. It was a nice car 'til then. Looks like you don't try to skrimp on anything.

My 360 in my van used to tap when cold right after I rebuilt it. And low pressure on the gauge running a Melling HV pump. I switched to a Pure and the problem went away.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

You have it right...
The only thing I would do different is to install the tube so it is on the "leading" (lead-in) side of the OP gear, instead of the exit side.
(2:00 position instead of the "9:00" location)
The 1:00 to 3:00 clocking position, combined with the direction of gear rotation, will quickly pull the "feed-in oil", right into the gear mesh contact area.

And yes, now I do all my "performance" oil pumps this way. (easier, faster & more effective then the "bolt-in" oiler tube method I have used in the past)
Below is a photo showing where the first hole is located. Use a long shank, 1/8 drill and angle the hole as "steep" as possible, into the shaft bore. I look for the drill point, left from the relief valve bore machine work and use that spot as a place to start drilling.
DD

Thanks for the Info on this guys.. I will be trying this next time I have an oil pump apart for some reason..



Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

i have the pump in just tried to see oil flow, i might have to drill another line hole, seems like the oil is flowing into the gear teeth,i will have to see when i get it on the test stand. http://youtu.be/dWPytZpCNRQ

Nice video...
Are you worried that the stream is hitting the back-side of the fast moving gear teeth and deflecting off?

One "trick" is to slightly crush or deform the end of the delivery tube so you get more of a "fan" spray of oil, instead of a well formed stream.
DD

ok , never thought of it, i will try that and see how it works. thanks doug

I just finished a 7/8 cast iron pump for a member so I took some additional photos of it.
Actually brazed the tube down to the pump on this unit... it's not going anywhere.
You can see two exit holes if you look closely at the end of the tube.
Also took a shot with a "spray" of WD-40 down the feed hole, just to show the delivery.
DD

doug i had a chance to pull the pump and use a flat chisel to flatted the tube end. it seem to have more oil in the gear, i might just have to redo another housing and change the outlet location. http://youtu.be/2PihBgycTY4

Thanks guys for the Videos and Photos!




Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack