So, i was on the way home from Steak n Shake after a bite to eat and I pulled into industrial complex to do a launch. I came to a stop pushed the clutch in rev'd the motor up a bit then dumped the clutch and it stuck the floor put it in nuetral pushed it again popped right back up, the only time i've ever had my clutch stay on the floor was when i snapped the rod that goes from the pedal to the zbar in half. So i'm confused considering i didn't break anything besides my heart when I was like OH CRAP. Anyway the car still drives fine and the clutch pedal didn't do that again the rest of the time driving home. The only thing i've changed is i used to have 2 springs on the clutch fork to help the pedal return and to make it a bit harder to push because i didn't like how easy it was it made slipping the clutch out slowly to be smooth dificult because there wasn't much pedal pressure to be holding back if that makes sense? I'm thinking i'll just put the other spring back on which is fine but I was under the impression you don't even really need a spring down there on a diaphram clutch? Maybe my spring under the dash is really strong and wants to pull the pedal to the floor?

Kev

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Sounds like the clutch was depressed too far and the fingers went over center. Diaphragm clutches don't need as much travel as the Borg and Beck type so you may need to limit the pedal travel.

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Joshua

Yep, either adjust the clutch for more "free play", or put a pedal stop under the cluch pedal. The prober way is to have someone hold the padal to the floor, and adj the linkage for a certain clearence between the disc and pressure plate/flywheel(checked with a feeler gauge). I can't remember the required clearance. Maybe call the clutch people for the number.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Ya that sounds about right because I do think the clutch starts engaging higher up the pedal travel then i had it set before i'll call spec and see if they got a clearance number i can set it by.

Kev

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When I switched the 69 Dart from 3 finger B&B press plate to A Diphrgham style I had no issues with the Pedal retun spring until one Drag strip pass the Pedal "stuck to the floor on the 3-4 shift.

I stabbed the pedal again and then it came back up..


Pulled the spring off in the pits with a crow bar and 100's of passes since then same PP etc.. no issues.

My suggestion is to take out the spring and check pedal free play then turbo slant on brother.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yikes that sounds like a pain to get that giant underdash spring out, I haven't anytime to look down their yet i'll probably so some fixing this weekend.
Quick carb question now that the intake and exhaust is sealed up back to tuning this thing, off idle stumble seems worse with the sealed manifolds than when i had massive exhaust leaks and a questionable vaccum leak. The thing is when i began slipping the clutch the engine goes extremly lean when going from the idle circuit to thottle making the car very cold blooded once it's warmed up fairly easy to drive but when it's not good and hot it's a chore to keep running when starting to move from a stop but it does idle fine just sitting still while the motor is cold. My question is their a better way to help richen the very light throttle stuff like that or do i have to just keep throwing more main jet in it? Because of course the higher my jets the better it's running but i'm already up to a 87 in the front i was thinking maybe some pumpshot would help the dip into the throttle but that would probably only help under hard acceleration i would assume. Idle AFR is 11.0 RICH very very light throttle at cruise is where everything goes lean push the pedal another 1/4 inch or more and it looks good on the AFR but when you get to deeper in the pedal goes back to 10.0 RICH i'm thinking that either the powervalve opening or i'm just starting to crack the secondaries I haven't varified where they open with pedal movement yet they are set up with the progressive linkage in hopes for gas mileage. Oh an i do have 8inch vent tube extensions on i gotta take them off so i can write down the different they made in richness could be culprit of moderate acceleration richness?

Kev

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Ok so i'm someone will call me stupid or else i'm a little stumped for ideas.
Current setup runs rich at idle 10.9's afr but runs good through all gears with just the slightest of lean spot in 4th gear with very very slight pedal input. So i figured the main jet was still a size or two small so i stepped up 2 more jets now the car has no light throttle bog in 4th gear but pops in 1st gear from being really rich at about 1/3 throttle, thats problem number 1.
Problem number 2 is, I attempted to lean the idle today with the 4 corner screws i turned all 4 corners in a 1/4 turn made no difference on the afr gauge at idle but the car ran like $#!+ and was very lean through all gears. What the hell? I thought those screws only affected the idle circuit?

Please tell me i'm missing something or an idea to turn to next lol.

Kev

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The carb is too big and you're running on the idle circuits more than you know. You can't idle lean. Not with a reasonable idle speed and timing setting at least. I would put the main jets and idle mixture screws back to where they were. You might try a little less idle mixture on the secondary side and more on the primary side to get rid of the lean spot in 4th gear, but if it runs smooth in 4th gear I wouldn't worry about it being lean. It's light load operation and you want it lean then anyway.

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Joshua

Thank you sir, thats what I needed to hear ok I'll go back to the previous setting and find other ways to make things perform the way i'm aiming for. Meth kit is mounted and halfway hooked up will be hitting some test n tune at the track soon. afr at wot is 12.2 at the moment with no meth so will adjust after the meth is hooked up. Should I be shooting for 12.0 or richer like 11.5 wot?

Lou you might have to take a trip to florida you get great gas mileage it should be no sweat! turbo 6 vs turbo 6.
Couple more fixes on the list that finally is getting smaller, then gotta take a trip up to Charrlies and show him the new setup and lend some elbow grease on some of his stuff in return for many answered questions over the phone.

Thanks, to everyone who has helped me along with ideas or pointed me in the right direction with experience and advice, If it weren't for the family forum of gearheads I don't know if I would have found such a love in this hobby which is starting to turn into a job oppurtunity.
Kev

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11.5 @ WOT is a good number to shoot for. 12.0 is towards the lean side.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Glad things are working purty well for ya, and happy if I helped in any way.

I have mine tuned for 11.0-11.6:1 under full boost (9 psi, no intercooler), and tapering off to 12.5 or 13:1 at 100kPa. It was a snap with the MS-I EFI. I routinely run it lean (15-17:1) at part throttle cruise, and have not hooked up O2 feedback since the turbo swap.

Would be cool to get together sometime...

Best,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

So it's been awhile still pluggin away on the never ending list on the car.
Just added eddy ias shocks all 4 corners new 5 leaf springs compared to my stock 4 leafs since the dusters tail was saggin.
Meth kit is mounted but not hooked up but I did finally buy a 5gal jug of methanol so i'll be playing with that soon.
833od still shifting like a pile but seems to be getting a tad better the more i play with the shifter adjustments.
Finally have full throttle when I mash the gas pedal but now that the secondarys are being used they seem to not want to return all the way to a low idle. Looks like i'll be pulling the carb tonight and looking around inside why the blades seem stiff or don't want to return even with 2 springs on the linkage. The throttle cable can be unhooked and they still dont return just fyi. The car seemed to pick up a decent amount of power now the secondaries are getting used. The car starts to dance a bit in second gear and first gear has no hope of hooking up regardless of any kind of feathering the pedal.

Kev

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"The car starts to dance a bit in second gear and first gear has no hope of hooking up regardless of any kind of feathering the pedal."

Are you bragging, or complaining???

No complaining here! This car puts the biggest smile on my face everytime my foot hits the floor since I put this setup together.

Noticed something kind of wierd today my afr at idle is always 10.5 to 11.2 ish and randomly after my fill up on my way home from the gym I noticed the afr at idle is 12.0 to 12.5. The afr seemed normal during the drive in all the other gears at least normal as in the numbers i've been seeing for the past few weeks.

Meth kit last thing to do before i'm track ready!!
Kev

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