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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:04 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 526
Location: Illinois
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I tried a search couldn't find an answer so I figured I'd just ask.

What amperage is the draw on the solenoid on the starter. My service manual puts it at 14.4-16.0 amps at 6 volts. I find it strange to be listed at 6 volts. If it is 14-16@6V would that be 7.2-8@12V?

I am wanting to add a fuse/relay box to my valiant and use 1 of the relays in it for the starter relay. I just need to make sure of the required power to engage the starter solenoid. The factory used 12 gauge wire for the relay to solenoid wire. 12 gauge seems way oversized for a 1 foot run with a 10 amp load especially compared with the undersized wiring they used everwhere else.

If i am way off base on my thinking on this please set me straight and thanks in advance for any help


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:01 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Double the voltage, double the current. That's part of Ohm's Law.

Wait, you want to use a relay for the starter relay? One relay isn't enough?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:15 pm 
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Spec is at 6v because pull-in and hold-in characteristics are different, and if you apply 12v you'll go straight to hold-in mode unless there's something seriously the matter with the solenoid winding.

Your query is ambiguous: you're wanting to replace the function of the original starter relay with an in-box relay? Or you're wanting to trigger the original starter relay with an in-box relay?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:10 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
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Location: Illinois
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My thought was to replace the original. I do realize that it is a proven design and there isn't any problems with the functionality of the cars electrical system in its current condition. I was just wanting to clean up the engine bay harness when I add the new box.

I also kinda dislike the fact that you can jump start the starter so easily. I don't live in a high crime area, but anyone with slightly decent automotive skill can hot wire a 60's chrylser in 20 seconds with a just a penny.
Quote:
Spec is at 6v because pull-in and hold-in characteristics are different, and if you apply 12v you'll go straight to hold-in mode unless there's something seriously the matter with the solenoid winding.
So does the factory relay apply 6v? Is there any harm in applying 12V?

To sum it up, the fuse relay box I am using has a max relay amperage of 30 amps. Am I within safe limits for use with the starter solenoid or should I stick with what already works?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:24 pm 
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Quote:
My thought was to replace the original. I do realize that it is a proven design and there isn't any problems with the functionality of the cars electrical system in its current condition. I was just wanting to clean up the engine bay harness when I add the new box.
The starter relay is used not only to trigger the starter, but as a junction point for the charging circuit. You'll need to rework that, too.
Quote:
I also kinda dislike the fact that you can jump start the starter so easily. I don't live in a high crime area, but anyone with slightly decent automotive skill can hot wire a 60's chrylser in 20 seconds with a just a penny.
You, ah, planning on constructing some kind of a cage shield around the starter itself? Around the back of the ignition switch? Hiding the starter relay won't make the car any harder to hotwire and steal.
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So does the factory relay apply 6v?
No. Where would it get 6v to apply? And why would it do that? You're asking and we're talking about a bench test here.
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To sum it up, the fuse relay box I am using has a max relay amperage of 30 amps.
That's more than plenty, but I really don't see a point to this what you propose.
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should I stick with what already works?
That's what I would do.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 526
Location: Illinois
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Yup complete rework of charging system. No ammeter. Dedicated relay for VR. Driver side alternator through large amp circuit breaker direct to battery. Denso alt when I get around to hitting the junkyards.

Cage around the starter to prevent jumping it there is a simple heatshield.

"No. Where would it get 6v to apply? And why would it do that? You're asking and we're talking about a bench test here."

I had no idea where 6V would come from so I asked. The car is in storage at the moment so I am doing what planning I can at the computer with a FSM and computer wiring drafting program. 5 years down the road I want a record of where I put wires and where they go.

"That's more than plenty, but I really don't see a point to this what you propose."

Really it is just about looks. I want a nice clean streamlined engine bay.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:06 pm 
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Quote:
Cage around the starter to prevent jumping it there is a simple heatshield.
Heatshield wouldn't prevent me jumping the starter. I wouldn't even have to remove it.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:11 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 526
Location: Illinois
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ahh, but then again you are you. and being as it is you we are taking about you can prolly hot wire my car from your keyboard. :D


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