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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:10 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:54 pm
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Location: Pendleton
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Hope this will work. It was a 'barn find'. Last tagged in 78, disassembled and painted, then never put back together. I bought it about a year ago. Fortunately, they kept everything, pretty much, even all the original interior, boxed. It was actually a 2-fer deal as I got a white/blue 2dr SF, also a 383hp car with factory air. Also, disassembled! I wish I had a camera when we pulled it out but the 2 lower shots are the earliest one's I have of the re-assembly process. I bought a new Canon digital so I'll be taking more pictures in the future. Anyway, it kept me busy for a few months!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:10 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 5:22 am
Posts: 1134
Location: Carrollton, TX
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BEAUTIFUL car.

For every fifty (one hundred? one thousand?) guys who yank out a slant to install a V-8, there's always a madman or two that drop a slant in place of a V-8... Love it! :twisted:

A well-built slant should scoot even that Fury around nicely.

Welcome, best of luck, and keep us posted!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:27 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
Posts: 8968
Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
Very, very cool car Rex! :D

Thanks for sharing it with us!

I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with it as you build up a nice Slant 6 for it.

Once again, welcome to the Forum!

You're now a part of the "Slanted Family". :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:18 pm
Posts: 3130
Location: Indy
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Nice -what a looker!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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What a beautiful car! Welcome on the board. I'm the lighting guy (gimme a shout if you want better headlights etc.), and your '63 has amber front park/turn lenses I've never seen on a '63 Plymouth. 1963 was the first year for amber front turn signals -- this way by voluntary industry agreement and coöperation among all 50 states; there was no Federal regulation of cars until 1968. The Dart and Valiant got amber lenses for '63, but all the '63 Plymouths I've ever seen have had colorless lenses originally in front of amber bulbs. There were various aftermarket amber conversion products offered (spray-on tints, flexible amber filters sized and shaped to fit behind the lens, etc). But I've never seen amber lenses for the '63 Plymouth, and while the final-edition '63 factory parts catalogue calls out colorless and amber lens options for some 1963 models, the Plymouths aren't among them; there's only one part number for the '63 Plymouth park/turn lamp (left = right). What can you tell us about 'em?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:44 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:54 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Pendleton
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But I've never seen amber lenses for the '63 Plymouth, and while the final-edition '63 factory parts catalogue calls out colorless and amber lens options for some 1963 models, the Plymouths aren't among them; there's only one part number for the '63 Plymouth park/turn lamp (left = right). What can you tell us about 'em?
Thank you for the welcome & car compliments. It isn't a bad looking car but not any where near a show piece. Would need lots of $$'s to do that and I wouldn't enjoy it one dime more so bad return of money for me. :D

Absolutely nothing special about the park lights. I made 3 sets (clear-tinted amber, yellow & blue) out of 3/16 plexiglass, off the pattern of the original. 5 of 6 lenses (orig) I got had cracks or screws pulled through on them & I have tons of plexi laying around. It looks really cool with the blue one's but officer Muldoon takes a dim view of that around here! :lol: The yellow look pretty good too and I'm sort of hunting around for 1 good original lens to go with the one I have. I kind of like the amber, though.

Wow, I have found a ton of info on here that explains some of my 'findings' as I've torn these motors down. Lots of questions already answered but I'll still have a bunch, I think.

Converting to a 6 has been great. I love having people ask whether it's a 426 or a 383 and then opening the hood. Most go 'I haven't seen one of those in years!'. Thank you again for the compliments!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:26 pm
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Location: CBS Newfoundland Canada
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those little non=factory difference make a cool car 8) keep it coming and going (ideas) :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:56 pm 
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It isn't a bad looking car but not any where near a show piece. Would need lots of $$'s to do that and I wouldn't enjoy it one dime more so bad return of money for me.
Totally agreed.
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Absolutely nothing special about the park lights. I made 3 sets (clear-tinted amber, yellow & blue) out of 3/16 plexiglass, off the pattern of the original.
Oog. I don't like 'em so much any more. :-( Unsafe; no optics to distribute the light through the required range of horizontal and vertical angles. Please go to the hardware store or Home Depot, get a sheet of that diamond-textured clear polycarbonate sheet used as diffusion material in fluorescent lights -- I'm talking about this stuff, $7 for a 2-by-4-foot sheet. Cut to correct size/shape and put it behind your homemade lens to spread the light.
Quote:
I'm sort of hunting around for 1 good original lens to go with the one I have.
Those lenses are available new…

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:38 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:54 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Pendleton
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Quote:
Oog. I don't like 'em so much any more. :-( Unsafe; no optics to distribute the light through the required range of horizontal and vertical angles. Please go to the hardware store or Home Depot, get a sheet of that diamond-textured clear polycarbonate sheet used as diffusion material in fluorescent lights -- I'm talking about this stuff, $7 for a 2-by-4-foot sheet. Cut to correct size/shape and put it behind your homemade lens to spread the light.
Actually, I'm going a slightly different way. If you wet sand the back side w/600 and then use led boards, on the indicator brightness, they are very much like daytime running lights, like on the newer corvettes. They come on as soon as you 'key on'. Then I just use relays to break the power to them, with the positive on/off of the blinker circuit. I just haven't found the led boards that I want to use yet as I want to fill up most of the lenses. I could make them but these big truck shops are constantly coming up with different led arrays all the time. Hope to have it done by this Spring.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:36 pm 
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If you wet sand the back side w/600 and then use led boards, on the indicator brightness, they are very much like daytime running lights, like on the newer corvettes. They come on as soon as you 'key on'. Then I just use relays to break the power to them, with the positive on/off of the blinker circuit.
You can turn the blinkers into DRLs with relays (it takes more than it seems to make it all work correctly) or with one of these.
Quote:
I just haven't found the led boards that I want to use yet as I want to fill up most of the lenses. I could make them but these big truck shops are constantly coming up with different led arrays all the time. Hope to have it done by this Spring.
Most of the front park/turn LED lamps are not sufficiently intense for a legal or effective daytime running light function. Also, there's a lot of junk on the market. The ones you want are these. Making them yourself is a lot harder to do and get right (i.e., safe and effective) than it seems. In the context of automotive lighting and signalling, "visibility" means way, way more than just "Do they light up real bright?". It is not impossible to make your own LED car lights and come up with something adequately safe for use in public-roadway traffic, but it is a great deal more difficult than most people realize. See threads here and here for two examples of homemade LED light projects with the right amount of thought, effort, understanding, and technique behind them to be probably safe. (even if you don't care a whit for the technical stuff, it's worth reading the linked threads; the amount of craftsmanship that went into the mods is a beautiful thing to see).

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:57 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:54 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Pendleton
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Quote:
You can turn the blinkers into DRLs with relays (it takes more than it seems to make it all work correctly) or with one of these.
Really? I've done a half-dozen this way all ready, found it pretty rudimentary. But, I've been wiring cars for about 45 years. :lol:

Thank you for the links, I'll give them a look sometime. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:12 pm 
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Really?
I haven't seen it done with fewer than four relays. You've got me curious -- care to share a diagram for how you put it together?
Quote:
I've been wiring cars for about 45 years.
And you still have hair left…?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:23 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:54 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Pendleton
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Sorry, never bothered with a diagram for that. 2 double throw relays & 2 diodes. Keyed power to the relays. Use the relay side that passes power when the relay is not energized to the flasher filament, then use the positive lead that normally goes to the bulb to energize the relay. Momentarily breaks the circuit & shazam, a blinking driving light.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:31 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:54 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Pendleton
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Oh, and no I don't have all of my hair but I still have most of it. This is the wife & I. You can tell she's the fancy dresser in our home! :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:37 pm 
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I'm not sure I'm following you. If I'm understanding you correctly you're using the relay "backwards"; terminal 30 is power out to the bright (turn/DRL) filament, yes?

Terminal 87 (NO) is connected to ____?
Terminal 87a (NC) is connected to ____?
Diode goes where?

"Use the positive lead that normally goes to the bulb to energize the relay" sounds like we're connecting the car's original front turn signal wire to relay terminal 86 (and grounding #85). But if we do it that way, the relay will energize and de-energize in time with the turn signal flasher (which will have to be a non-load-sensitive item).

Perhaps I'm extra-tasty-crispy-dense this evening, but I'm not seeing how two changeover relays and two diodes will provide the needed operation: front turn signals (not parking lamps) burning steadily when ignition is on except when you're signalling for a turn, at which point the turn signal on that side flashes.

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