I've never had the interference problem with the MO-3000 rotor and CH410X, but it requires very little shaft play. Also, I remember a few slant6 caps that were ground off-center, but I think those were the Echlin caps.

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'66 Dodge Dart

I have a spare points distributor as well as a spare pertronix distributor and both couldn't spin past the same two contact points.

In a normal points or electonic Distribuitor It would not make any difference..

But I have found on my 2 pertronix conversions..

1. The dart.. I wanted to get rid of the points but wanted to retain the stock look - Did not want to wire or hide a mopar EI or HEI conversion somewhere..

2. My 79 Volare with efi Conversion..

Anyway the Fatter plastic body of the Standard blue streak rotors are needed to set the magnets in the correct orientation on my pertronix setups..

Otherwise I wouldnt care.. I will just have to use the Thinner rotors on all my stock lean burn and EI cars and Save the Fatter rotors for the Pertronix equipped cars..until I can find a high quality replacement


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I might Just stick with the Standard CH303 for my rotor applications..

It has the design I am looking for.

I am not sure what the Difference is between the CH303 Rotor and the Discontinued Bluestreak CH303X is.. Other than price About $0.28 More for the Discontinued CH303X...

I might jsut have to buy a CH303 and compare. as I still have a stock of CH303X's laying around as spares in my racing toolkit for ruster..


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

The "X" part was made with higher-grade, higher-dielectric material. All dimensions were identical.

Still not sure why you think the fat-shank design is better.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.