OK, before I put this together, I want to determine my assembly lube.
Is there any reason I can't pre-lube a Slant with my pump, using the oil sender signal orifice, while turning the motor?
What do ya'll do?
Thank you.

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Sport Fury

I use Isky's assembly lube.

Do you have some kind of special exturnal oil pump that you can use to pressurize the engine prior to start-up?
DD

Yes. Electric pump on a 2 gallon container. I just use a 10 wt. oil & leave the plug out of the pan. Leaves it in the filter but I change the 'initial start-up oil pretty quick. I built several motors that you can't easily lube with the engine pump. Harbor freight probably makes them, by now. You know, the silly part to this is, all those 265's & 283's I built/raced as a kid? Dumped oil in the pan & fired 'em up!

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Sport Fury

:shrug: Well, I will give it a shot & report back next week, if I have success. Actually, I guess I'd better report the failure too, if it doesn't work! Thanks!

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Sport Fury

All the Slants I build / race, I put a little Isky assembly lube in the pump's impeller cavity, pour some oil into the oil filter and pan, fire them up & run them.
DD

I just got a jar of this for my last rebuild...I love it, it's just like the old assembly paste that actually will stick to the bearing for a few weeks while you put is all together. The new clear crap in a tube that the local parts stores sell now really does not stay, it eventually puddles in the lowest point and leaks out the bearing clearances....The moly also is added protection just in case.



-D.Idiot

That's how the factory did it with slant-6s, too. They still manage to live to a ripe old age. Your preluber sounds nifty; by all means use it if you'd like, but I don't see the need. Use assembly lube paste when building up the engine, pack the oil pump gerotor cavities with vaseline, pour some oil down the central pipe on the filter mount before installing the filter, shoot a tablespoon or two of oil into each cylinder via the spark plug hole, crank the engine without spark plugs until the oil pressure light goes out, install the spark plugs, and start the engine and you'll be doing a great deal more careful job of pre-lubing than the factory ever did.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have seen pieces of machining stuff surface pre lubing. Nice to catch it.

What's wrong with white lithium grease?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Thank you all for the replies, not anything new/different than I did for years. The nice part about the pre-luber, once you go that way, is it takes minutes, you do it just before you fire and if the motor has sat for a month or 2 (or year) because life or something got in the way, you just use oil to assemble. It's just newer tech and if you got (& it will work) you might as well use it. I'm a little surprised that no one had, was all.

Thanks for tips!

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Sport Fury

I am another who just fills the filter and pan, cranks with coil wire discon'ed until oil P comes up and then starts it.

We did this on Friday with the 24hrs of LeMons car - fresh dry re-ringed '78 motor. It would not pull oil pressure until we filled the filter, then it came right up. A few bearings were actually making knocking sounds on cranking before the oil got in there. Yes, we were really worried. Once it got pressure and fired, we idled it and drove around the pits for a total of about 40-60 min, then endurance raced it for 14.5 hrs!! It was rock solid and showed no signs of wear/damage. We didn't even change out the break in oil. I think Jason will do that before the next outing... See the LeMons thread in "Events" for a writeup on this AMAZINGLY fun weekend...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

back in the day when we built big inch Harley motors we pre lubed anything/everything with white disk brake wheel bearing grease.
them just kick over engine without plugs until the oil returned to the oil tank..never an issue

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

I use my own special mix, Basicly a 50/50 mix of Lucas and brad Penn green oil, the brad pen has been such a good oil to me, and that Lucas sticks to everything. I built a vw engine, let it sit on the shelf for a year and a half, forgot what I had built by the time I had a car to put it in, tore it apart to check, and the lube was still stuck on bearings like they should.

I've used your technique for years on everything from flatheads, to slants, to hemi but used a flathead oil pump immersed in a super large coffee can. Using a variable speed drill with a rod attached that has a flattened end to match the oil pump drive point I pump 5 quarts thru the engine with the oil line hooked to where a guage or sending unit would hook up.
I have a guage to insure that the pressure is kept below 40 psi by controlling the drill rpm.
Then after the initial start I use an Accusump to prime the engine before each start each day...only adds about 15 seconds to your start sequence.

If you want info on how to install an Accusump I have 17 pictures for the installation. PM with your email address

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

Pre-lube works fine off sender orifice.

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Sport Fury