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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:23 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3830
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Today's project included degreeing the cam on the 83 motor,

messed with it for about an hour, absolutely nothing was making sense,
then i figured out the #1 lifter was an exhaust, not an intake..
big dummy me!

once that was resolved, for cam degreeing this article is about as good as anything else on the internet http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... degree+cam
thanks Kielbasa. Josh and CNC-Dude,, your questions - answers was much help in filling in the blanks.

For the cam for the 83 D-150,, Oregon1333/1527 regrind over the stock cam. per the Oregon Cam Card it is a 105 LSA, 105 Intake CL and 105 Ex Cl

I installed it using a 2 degree nickel colored Mopar bushing,so my installed numbers are:105 LSA, 103.5 Intake CL and 106 Ex Cl

my event numbers are
at .050
IVO 3 BTDC
IVC 31 ABDC
EVO 29 BBDC
EVC 3 BTDC

per Oregon, the way they ground it...
at .050
IVO 1 BTDC
IVC 31 ABDC
EVO 28 BBDC
EVC -2 ATDC

that is close enough for rock and roll,,
however also checked the cam lift with a dial indicator..

actual intake lift , .299 x 1.5 = .448, Oregon stated .477 on the Cam Card
actual exhaust lift , .284 x 1.5 = .426, Oregon stated .432 on the Cam Card

minus 6 % on the intake
minus 1.5 % on the exhaust

I'll be talking to Oregon Cam on the Intake lift numbers,, above 5% error is more than I expect to see..this is base circle - peak,, we should be able to measure within better than .030....

Regards
DT


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:54 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:45 pm
Posts: 578
Location: Orange County
Car Model:
your welcome, that was a fun night trying to get everything setup hahaha... on my motor i ended up with like 2.5 degrees advanced? no shim needed

for the lift numbers, did you do your measuring dry? the oil/moly grease can add quite a bit extra lift with no spring pressure


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:29 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1336
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Your welcome Dad, glad to have been a help.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:31 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:07 pm
Posts: 284
Location: indiana
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nice work young man!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:42 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3830
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Kielbasa,, I had a film of light oil on the #1 cly cam lobes, I did have assembly lube on the cam bearings,,,


I should have put the cam lube on all of the other lobes..but didn't

So now it is either, trying to reach in with a long handle brush or pulling the cam back out to grease it up and re time it,,,,, I believe I am up for the long handle brush method...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:07 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3830
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
the question of the intake lift that Oregon ground into the cam is resolved.

on the Cam Card Oregon wrote intake lift of .477 with 1.5 ratio,, that is a typo. What they should have put on the card is .447 with 1.5 ratio,,, that calculates back to a lob lift of .298,, I checked the lift at .299

its all good!

although I am thinking of installing the 4 degree bushing to advance the intake center closer to 100,, would never be easier than now,,,


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14570
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Be very careful trying to lube the lobes in block. Cam lube in the lifter bores can keep the lifters from rotating during break-in and wipe a lobe. :shock:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:30 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3830
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Quote:
Cam lube in the lifter bores can keep the lifters from rotating during break-in and wipe a lobe
so what is recommended?

to lube all the lobes but #1 cly, then degree the cam, then carefully lube the #1 lob

or

pull the cam after degreeing and just be careful to get it back in the same place


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:58 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:45 pm
Posts: 578
Location: Orange County
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what i do on any motor i build, is use moly grease/lube, or basicly ARP bolt lube. a little arp packet will do a slant 6 cam.

i cake the moly on all the lobes thick, then for cam bearing and lifters, i use the moly lube, then oil on top of that.

the mixture of moly and oil, is VERY slippery works great


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:53 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
John, is the pan on? You should be able to go through the bottom and keep away from the lifter bores.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:24 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
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Location: Indianapolis
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thanks,
yes I plan to use moly cam lube and the pan is off..


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Piece of cake. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 4:10 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3830
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
ok,, figured this cam degree proposition will never be easier to optimize than now... so

took out the 2 degree nickel colored bushing and put in the 4 degree copper colored bushing, got the following

105 LSA, 100.5 Intake Centerline

at .050
IVO 6 BTDC
IVC 27 ABDC
EVO 32 BBDC
EVC 5 BTDC

during various searches,,,kept seeing that 100 to 102 is a good Intake Centerline Angle for torque and slants.. From the RB dynamic compression calculator the change from a 104 to a 100 ICA changes the dynamic compression from 8.14 to 8.19,,
we shall see :D


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