I will explain this wrong. My brian isn't up to snuff today.

I have a 64 truck. No electronic boxes or distributor or anything. I only added Pertronix to the original points distibutor back before I found this site and understood the ballast resistor. I don't really understand why they make a coil that 12v doesn't connect to but I'll just have to live with the crazy things that are different on a Dodge.

I hooked the Pertronix (AFAIK it's Pertonix I, Only says Pertonix Ignitor on the box) to the Poz and Neg side of the coil. It has ran great but now I know it's supposed to have 12 volts and doesn't.

I'm pretty sure I shortened the wire to make everything neat and now it probably won't reach the poz side of the resistor. Not a big problem but I've read posts about changing the coil and doing away with the resistor.

I would like to do that but don't know what coil I need. Pertronix instructions say:

"If your ignition is equipped with a ballast resistor, do not remove it."
Also: "The ignitor is compatable with a points style coil. A minimum primary resistance of 1.5 ohms is required"

Does "minimum resistance of 1.5 ohms" mean that 3.0 Ohms is better or .5 ohms is better? I should know that but it's brain fart day. State holiday here in GA. I guess I've thought about it too much.

What coil can I get that will allow me to connect 12 volts to the poz side of the coil?

I've also cut into my 12v side of the resistor to power my choke modulator. Now I've read that it wasn't a good idea. I could kick myself for cutting that wire but I think I can re-connect it without it looking too bad. I need another source for switched 12v.

Thanks,
Danny

Your present setup is fine and shouldn't be changed. "If your ignition is equipped with a ballast resistor, do not remove it" is pretty clear and straightforward. Ballast resistance is not a thing Dodge did differently, it was utterly standard practice across the industry.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My pertronix is connected to 6v though. I thought it might be a good time to change the coil, get rid of the resistor and give my pertronix 12v.

Lengthening the wire to reach the resistor is actually easier - no doubt about that - but everyone seems to be trying to get rid of the resistor... or so I thought.

Dan's the man though. I'll take your advice anytime.

(Hey, got to hear my truck run for the first time since Nov. 2007, sure felt good)

Danny

Use the pertonix 3 ohm coil without a ballast resistor.

1.5 ohm coil with ballast resistor.


Don't use a .5 ohm coil with a pertonix 1.



I'm currently running the 3 ohm pertronix coil with the pertronix 1.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks Ed, Just what I was looking for. Now I wonder if I have to order and wait for a Pertronix coil or if the parts store has one equivalent. Doesn't matter as long as it's 3 ohm right?

Danny

I would think that any 3 ohm coil would work............

But I don't think 3 ohm coils are very popular, and might be hard to get locally.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Maybe I'm over-thinking this but now I have another problem.

I have a lot to do and a lot to spend on other things on this truck at the moment. I also have a skipping problem - I don't think it's the pertronix since it ran great before but I have to start ruling out things.

So I decided to just run the pertronix wire to a 12V source for now. The problem is that I've read about someone having overcharging problems connecting a choke to the ballast resistor HERE . I'm already ordering a relay to do a complicated (complicated enough anyway) wiring job for the choke modulator just to keep from connecting it to the resistor so I don't have this problem.

The Pertronix instructions say to connect it to a 12V switched source. Would connecting to the resistor cause problems or not? Would the Pertronix drawing current from the resistor cause the same problems as the choke? I'm sure it's been done.

Also, I guess Dan is the one to ask, can I connect the Pertronix and the choke modulator to the same relay and get 12V from the starter wire/relay triggered by the resistor wire as planned, or do I need another relay?

Thanks,
Danny

I would run them separately. The stock ignition wire is plenty for the choke. The Pertronix Ignition should be run off a relay like the HEI set up for a full 12 volts.

I also have been using the Pertronix 3 ohm coil with out a ballast resistor for several years with no problems. Still running an older style ECU but have all the parts to convert to HEI.

My plugs still run white in an engine with over 250,000 miles.

Click on the red link below my name for pictures.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks Ted. I'm trying to stay away from the resistor for a power source. If someone had problems, I probably will, unless there is something different with Wjajr's car.

I'm still deciding about the 3ohm coil. I'm definitely planning to switch eventually. Probably need a coil soon anyway - just don't need to spend the money right now. If I have to buy a separate relay set-up I could just get the coil instead for just a few more $$.

Still not sure if bypassing/chunking the resistor would keep me from having overcharging problems if I use it for a 12v source though... so that may still not help me at the moment.

I was studying the HEI swap last night. Just got too much to do to deal with that right now. Pertronix works great in my old truck and is only getting 6V at the moment. I'd rather keep and extra one in the glove box. Already keep my points for an emergency.

Danny