my slant lives in an A108. i put headers on it a couple years ago. it has more heat in the box now. Dougs A100 insulation kit made the cab very comfortable.
next i upgraded to a front disc brake set up. since then i have had a heat problem with the brakes. i'm thinking about header wrap but have been told by more than one source that will shorten the life of the headers.

on Ebay i have seen something called a header blanket.

what has anybody here done about header heat?

bump?

Ceramic coating is a good alternative, but its not cheap. Header wrap will shorten your header life considerably. I have never heard of a header blanket. Anyway, ceramic coating consistently reduces underhood temps and extends header life, just google http://www.Jet-Hot.com and it will take you right to it.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

this is what i found.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380378201305?ss ... 1423.l2649

i'm told by the seller that this for full time application. it comes with some sort of metal tie wraps to hold it in place.

Looks good, but it wont fit the slant header like it does in the photo because the intake will be in the way.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

true. but i figured it would be an improvement. i wondering if such a loose wrap would avoid the pitfalls of the tape style wrap.
i'm not hoping to make all the heat unnoticeable. i just want to reduce it near the brake hardware.

Maybe an electric cooling fan for a cheap alternative? Set on a timer or temp switch?

How does hot engine temps affect brakes?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

it seems to expand the fluid. i've had to loosen the brake pedal adjustment some. when set where i want it when cold, it expands enuff to tighten the brakes enuff to render the van undrivable.

I'm not familiar with the master cylinder placement. I would insulate the lines and MC.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

i found myself thinking the same way.

been there, done that. the van is drivable now, but i have to work with a pedal that has a different feel when cold or hot. fortunately the insulation allows that range to be small enuff that i don't need to be constantly adjusting the pedal. the set up works great for stopping. i just can't call the conversion complete till i get this issue resolved.

i think the key is the shielding i had to cut away to allow the bigger M/C to fit. i'm thinking that maybe Dutra Duals would generate less heat but i'm not really ready to undo all the work of getting the headers in there.
so im' still looking for heat management ideas.

gato, im currently in the middle of moving to west covina, im not a VAN guy, but i have a couple friends who are HUGE into vans, and one is very big into dodges, he has owned quite a few a100's and a108's. hes the club president for Wheels of Confusion. they are currently doing a van caravan cruise as i type. if your interested in joining a club, im sure theyd love a new member, they are a group of cool old geezers from the 70's haha

for header heat control, this stuff gets good reviews

http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10969

but it ain't cheap,, and you will need to remove the headers, ship them,,,to get them coated,, I agree with the comments made earlier, shield the lines / master cylinder is the way to go...unless you can duct some cooling air over to the region of the MC,,

I've done header wrap on a couple applications. One was actual headers, the other was on the head pipes off my dual dutra duals.

It knocks a huge amount of engine compartment heat down.

Wrap can hold moisture and if the headers are made of thin material, they can rot out due to this. I never had a set of headers rot out myself.

For the thermal protection, it's worth the risk in my book.

I take it your prepared to dismount the headers to accomplish wrapping them? Doing it on the rig would be a major pain. Can be done, but you may excercise your vocabulary extensively, so send the little ones off somewhere safe.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I agree with Ceej. I've used header wrap but never experienced any rot or degradation of the headers. It does make a difference if the headers are made from a thin gauge metal or heavier gauge. 16 gauge should be the minimum thickness material you use.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Could possibly coat the headders once they are wrapped with a water/heat proof coating that'll help keep them dry?