this valve on the top center above the bowl or the tube sticking out the side there.. I got a kit for the carb and after installing it seems to be starting and running/idling fine but is leaking from the tube


Thanks in advance

That's the bowl vent. There should never be liquid fuel coming out of this tube. If there is, the fuel level in the carb is much too high because the float is not adjusted correctly and/or has absorbed gasoline, is too heavy, and needs replacement.

(Also, either your 1970 has the original carb and is a California model, in which case that tube should be connected via rubber hose to a fitting on the fuel pump body, or it is not the original carb and your car is not a California model.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan your a wealth of information. I was searching as well as posting and found some info and then readjusted the float and it ran for a bit then spit a tad of gas then quit and did not do it again so I think I for it right or at least close.

It's a reman carb so I would assume its not original to the car/engine. I alsO figured that tube needed to connect to something other than just open so if there was a float issue it would dump gas all off the exhaust And start a fire. I'm gonna look at see if it can be attached to the feel pump and if not at least extend it to a safe place for now

Thanks

No, if your '70 is not a California model that tube gets left open to the air.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The fender tag says it was built in canada

Where it was built isn't as important as what market it was destined for.

If you post the full set of numbers from the tag, there are those here that can help you decode it. I am mostly inept in doing so, and rely heavily on Dan to provide accurate information.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yep, Ceej is correct. What matters is not where the car was built, but whether it was built to 49-state/Canada specs or to California specs. Your car was built to 49-state/Canada specs, so you leave that vent tube open to the air.

Here's how your car decodes:

L: Dodge Dart model range
H: High trim/price class
23: 2-door hardtop
C: 225 cubic inch 145-bhp 1bbl 6-cylinder engine
0: 1970 model year
R: Built at Windsor, Ontario, Canada
305384: Vehicle serial number
E24: 225-1bbl 6-cylinder engine
D31: Standard-duty A904 automatic transmission
FK5: Body paint code: Dark Burnt Orange Metallic, PPG #2135
H2XW: High price class interior, vinyl bench seat, black
TX9: Upper door frame paint: Black
603: Built on 3 June 1970
302678: Vehicle order number
FK5: Roof paint code: Dark Burnt Orange Metallic, PPG #2135
G33: Driver side view mirror, manual chrome
H51: Air conditioning, integral with heat + defog
M21: Roof drip rail mouldings
M26: Wheel arch mouldings
M43: Grill surround mouldings
R11: Radio, AM 2½-watt Music Master
V7W: Accent stripes, white
Y05: Built to U.S. specifications
END: End of codes.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thank you sir.. and i looked for places for that tube to attach and could find nothing on the fuel pump but i guess that could have been replaced also but i believe it is not a California model.

again thank you for you time

That metal tube is the float bowl vent. I can't speak for the 1970 California models, but for '71 CA & '72-on 49 state/Federal emissions the bowl vent had a hose that went to the Evaporative emissions charcoal cannister (& one hose that fed vapor from the gas tank to the cannister). In turn there was another hose that fed the stored fuel vapors back into the carb to be consumed by the engine.

Since your car doesn't have the Evap cannister, if you want to you can attach a hose to the bowl vent that would channel "seepage" away from the exhaust.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Same as 49-state/Canada '71 models.
No, sir. '72 was the first year for the canister. '71 used the crankcase to store evaporative emissions. Full description of both systems is here.
No, fix the carburetor so there is no "seepage" and leave the tube open to the air.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks everyone


having that vent right there like that just seems like its an accident waiting to happen. Even a perfectly tuned carb could act up at any time and you might notice it just a tad to late and then you got a fire.

Would it hurt to route that tube elsewhere just to be safe i mean it would still be able to vent itself even it is was up over the firewall and away from the hot exhaust

Another question is that i dont have any equipment for proper adjustment of the carb ( esp the main one at the base of the carb) is there a general rule of thumb on basic adjustment IE: screw it all the way in and come out a turn and a half. I am going to pick up a timing light later this week when I get into town and what would i need for proper adjustment of the carb

It's not. Remember, pre-1971 (and pre-'70-California) cars all had fuel bowl vents at the top front of the carb, open to the atmosphere. Somehow -- some way! -- those cars don't erupt in big ol' nuclear gasoline fireballs.
If it'll make you sleep better at night, do as you wish…!
That adjustment requires…a screwdriver.
No. See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

well looks like i'm gonna go ahead and buy a float( should have anyway) as well because it runs fine most of the time but now and then it starts to run a tad rough and gas comes out the tube again..

I got the walker kit through amazon but they dont seem to have the float so i will have to find it elsewhere

Ah, the joys of a "remanufactured" carburetor

I suspect sooner or later you will be sending me a PM for a new carb!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.