I was reading the other post about checking ignition but I cant get the new motor to fire. The first fired on the first turn over then threw the rod,this one has been plagued from the start. Things Ive done:Replaced starter due to being in rain and full of rust water,replaced coil for fear of same. Everything else is new:plugs,wires,cap,rotor,battery.Engine wouldnt turn over cause was frozen starter,remedied. Now it turns,has fuel but no attempt at trying to run. I cant check the running ignition since it doesnt,not sure if my wires on the cap are off by one hole as I tried what I think,according to some pics but there not very clear,is correct and one over but not even a sputter or backfire.The motor has zero minutes and miles. Im sure Im missing something small as I havent changed anything in the car when I did this swap. This is on a 67 with under the cap pertronix being the only ignition mod done.All I can think to do is pull the valve cover and make sure Im lined up with #1 and try again. After that Im lost. Also have a Great Easter

Ok got the meter finally working. Batt is at 12.5 volts,drivers side of resistor is 5.6v,pass side of resistor is at 0v and resistor is very hot to the touch. All this checked with key turned on.

How did you test voltage at ballast resistor with key in "run position"?

Was one probe on negative battery post or good known ground, the other probe at one of resistor’s terminals, then negative battery terminal to opposite end of resistor? This method will show real voltage at each end of ballast.

Or, a probe at each end of resistor? This method gives voltage difference or rather voltage drop across the ballast.

You should see close to battery voltage on ignition switch side of ballast with one probe at negative battery post, and negative to other end of ballast will be lower, around five or six volts, at the coil side of resistor.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

All checks are with black on batt ground and key on run. Coil side gave me the zero volts and the casing was very hot

I have good spark off the coil and a very weak spark off the plug wires. Any tips?

Yup: Suspect your cap, rotor, and wires!

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cap rotor wires all changed and there is spark on the plug wires but the sucker still wont start or even try. Next step??