I want to put this as a "hypothetical question" about headers.
IF a U.S. company was showing interest in building quality,coated, LONG TUBE headers that will fit both the 170 and 198/225 engines, what would your responce be ??

What would you like to see, 3=3 for dual exhaust 6=1 for single or maybe a tri-Y design ?
This is posted on A Bodies Only also.
Please give your honest opinion as this just may happen. Thanks !

I wish I still had my old 73 duster as they would have worked and I would have been interested. Sadly I don't believe long tube headers fit the 66 Valiant or I would be very interested in them.

Robert

I do not believe the same set of long tubes will fit the G and RG unless the 170 is sitting high on custom mounts. If you ever look at a real race car (think vintage F1) with 6 or 12 cylinders you see only one cylinder grouping and it's 3 into 1.

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Joshua

First question is how much. Also, I saw that post as well, but a little fyi about one of those is their headers are made in Mexico. Not that this has anything to do with the end product....just sayin.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Romeo, I have had my 6X1 MP header dyno'd against a set of 6X2 Hookers on the same motor, same dyno, same day. The 6X1 just doesn't work. It gave up a ton of torque, and that was on a fairly stock motor. I was pretty shocked to say the least.

Another vote for the headers not being a fits-all for the 170/225. If they can make it work though, more power to them.

Also, the early A body takes a lot different header than the late A. Not sure you can even fab a pair that will fit both.

I have a friend who was interested in doing some Slant headers a few years ago. Biggest issue was that we could not get 5 people to agree what they wanted, and they have to be dirt cheap or they won't sell.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

3-2-1

Long tube 3 to merge collector.

Equal length 2 to another merge collector.


Lengths of each step need to be determined........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Another vote for 3 into 1, with 25-30" primaries pipes. I saw about 30 sets of custom and commercial headers hanging in Cameron Tilley's shop in Sydney, Aus, very close to his dyno room. He swore that that primary pipe length was best overall.

Clifford used to make a long tube that would fit early and late A-bodies w/225, but would not fit 170. I have a set of these, but they hit the trans bellhousing a little.

I would be interested, as long as they allow stock-type ground clearance. Yes, hard to get everyone to agree.

Cheers, Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I would like to see what ever is best for everyone's General intrest.

I am curious if its possible to make one set that works on a G and RG block at the same time - I can only imagine that putting the same Header that was designed for a 225RG would sit too low under the chassis on a 170 motor.

Could some type of slip joint be designed with a high quality stainless band clamp to adjust one set of tubes for both the G & RG engine? Also would this changing of length be a benifit or hinderance for tuning purposes??


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I just installed an unknown brand set of headers in my duster that are front 3 into 1 and rear 3 into 1... Definately not for a 170, also the previous owner had to dent one of the tubes for the automatic column shift....I had to dent a tube because it interfered with the steering crosslink, with manual clutch linkage it's pretty tight under the car. Also these would not work if the person had used the 11" flywheel and low mount starter setup as well.

How Many people actually use the low starter??

I have never seen one in person - Just some pictures..


Just curious.. Most of the 904 / Standard car bell's are the high mount correct?


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Zilla I'm surprised that the 6-1 didn't work very good on a stock motor. I bought 2 sets at the same time. The MP 6-1's didn't fit with my clutch linkage.

I had to notch the strut going to the bell for the Hookers. It is tight with the clutch stuff too.

Ground clearance is an issue with speed bumps.

Someone say the Hookers are now made in Mexico?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I've gone with a turbo, so conventional headers wouldn't work for me. But if I was going for headers, I'd go with 3 and 3; I've heard that more than four pipes results in less effective scavenging, so I would not want a 6 into 1.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Yep, for 15 years that I know of, maybe longer than that before it was discovered that they were. Bad thing is they are still charging the USA price for their products.

The problem with many headers is that sometimes on certain vehicles there is simply too many variables to make a one size fits all item. Many other vehicles have the same issues like the stick vs. auto tranny requiring a different header, and some if not all trucks have the 2WD vs. 4WD issue needing a different header. Then when you throw the low deck vs. high deck scenario into the mix, you still may have to consider the stick vs. auto problem on top of that for fitment. Some cars even have to fight the A/C vs. no A/C problem. Then if you do get a header that fits all the criteria you need, you still might have to notch something or flatten a tube to clear some linkage or bellhousing or firewall. Then you have the stock engine vs. mild perf. engine vs. race engine vs. turbo engine vs. etc... that all will need different primary tubes, collector sizes, etc.... to fulfill the needs of those people. And thats just for the A Bodies. You can always buy a bunch of U and J bends and make them yourself to get exactly what you need.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Zilla and CNC you guys hit the number. That is why a manufacturer won't make them. And the reason for the question. Like you Zilla, it's about 5 years talking to manufacturers and just resently one said "I'd build them if I knew what was wanted".Most just blew me off like I was some nut. So we talked about the issue of 170/225,Early A/67 up A, not even going into discussion with B bodies or Trucks. Let's face it guys, no one is going to make them for $100/$200 bucks these days.As far as price I have no clue but Clifford,Hooker,Aussie are in the $400 to $600+ range.
So before we ended I said that I would ask and see what the responce was and let them know the findings. Also what will be needed for R&D alone,at least 2 cars, Early/Late, Stick/Auto, type of shifters,A/C and the 170/198/225. Keep the thoughts comming..

Why not use Kickstarter to launch the project? For those not familiar, Kickstarter has become a widely successful means of project startup funding.

You mock up the headers, set an amount of money you need to get them into production, then direct people to Kickstarter to contribute.

If the project never reaches take-off, then no one who commits funds gets charged. If you reach your goal, then everyone gets charged.

Essentially you can set it up as a "pre-buy" deal, with a money back guarantee if the headers never make it into production. Seems like a great way to validate interest.

http://www.kickstarter.com

- Mac