It isn't hard to change the vacc pod (you need 2 screwdrivers and a replacement pod), and the vacc pod only advances when there is vaccuum applied to it...If the pod is dead, it will create a vaccuum leak off idle as described. I also would say you need to map out what your mechanic did, I bought a duster once and the previous owner complained it had problems...I later found out that the distributor vacuum advance was hooked to the EGR Vacuuum source on the carb...

If you don't feel up to changing a vacc. advance pod, Dan has a contact for a parts place that has OEM distributors for sale. I also have a couple of 1973-1974 distributor cores on hand I can refurbish over the weekend and make available (at least I provide a map/curve with my refurbishments).

-D.Idiot

Hi Everyone. Thank you for your advice thus far.

The VA is brand spanking new, I just put 5 miles (of test driving) on it.

The distributor does not move directly with the crankshaft, there is a bit of play. I wasn't aware of this until I re-installed it with the new VA on it.

The only thing I cannot 100% claim to be positive on it the proper porting of the vacuum hoses. As soon as I have a moment, I plan on adding some photos and potentially a quick video diagraming where is all goes.

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1974 Plymouth Duster

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1974 Plymouth Duster

I hope these photos are good enough for you. If not, I will take the car in the sunlight to get more for you. Let me know if these hoses look like they are in the right spot or not. A part of me is hoping for a moron mechanic, the other part, not...

Also, treat me like I know nothing about cars here, as I still find myself confused on the vacuum hose layout.

Thank you

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1974 Plymouth Duster

http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r262 ... G_0864.mp4

http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r262 ... 64copy.mp4

A video layout as best as possible...

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1974 Plymouth Duster

Do you have the factory service manual for your car? See this thread.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Go there and get the Holley 1945 information. It has diagrams that indicate what each vacuum port is for. Using that diagram, follow each hose under your hood from the carburetor to whatever the hose goes to. Note it and report it here.

If you can turn the crankshaft more than a degree or so before the distributor moves, you've got a slack timing chain or the distributor drive pinion is about to finish breaking.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan,

D. Idiot said you may have a contact for OEM distributors, can you please supply that when you have a moment.

Thank you.

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1974 Plymouth Duster

vacuum advance was the first thing i thought of. the pinion slop is an excellent point.

you definitely need an accurate diagnosis, which is accomplished by eliminating different systems as you go, not by changing parts until you get the right one. however, parts changing seems to run in human nature, and i must confess to having done it myself. gets expensive, though.

My suggestion would be to get to the bottom of your low comp problem first, do a comp test and see what you get. If the chain was replaced its possible its a tooth or more out as was mentioned earlier, if its only on one cylinder and the rest are fine then you need to get that issue sorted first... All the tuning in the world isn't going to help a dead cylinder, just my opinion.for the fuel line mod, I can recommend it, I did use a plastic filter for less heat transfer, but the only brand I use is Ryco, I don't think you have them in the USA? They fitted plastic filters from the factory here in Oz and the Ryco is exactly the same style, I would steer clear of those clear plastic cheapies , they just look scary to me,so if no Ryco available just get a metal housing style from a good brand like Wix I guess. I also used the pertronix module and a . 6 ohm oil filled coil they do for their electronic ignitions, I also used a relay with inbuilt 15 amp blade fuse all mounted to a heat sink then mounted to the inner fender for even more heat transfer. I'm very impressed with the difference. I also used a NOS distributor from the supplier that Dan recommended, it needed recurving as per the articles posted on this site, I had some assorted springs that I used to get the right rate of advance and I'm at close to 10btdc initial, works really nice on my setup., but it still won't help a low compression problem! Good luck, hope you get it all sorted.

Ryco filters used to be very high quality items made in Australia (and generally not available outside Australia). Now they are Chinese, and the only thing "Ryco" about them is the name stamp.

Plastic fuel filters are not as wise as metal ones with today's fuel formulations.
See Fuel line mod info for more details.

Vendor of new Chrysler electronic ignition distributors for slant-6 engines is Old Car Parts Northwest.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The one I used was made in South Africa ,at least from what it said on the packaging and they still seem to hold up just fine,perhaps it was older stock and they have now shifted manufacturing to China like everybody else. I have never seen a plastic Ryco fail using the fuel we have here,if they have changed manufacturers that may change, but if there was a problem the news would spread like wildfire over here. As a matter of fact I have never seen a metal case low pressure carby type filter here,but if Ryco have shifted to China I probably wouldn't be too bothered using them anymore,I would prefer to stay with local or USA made and would grab a few Wix filters for future use...what are the numbers for the oil and fuel filters? Thanks