Oh well: I guess 11 out of 13 ain't bad.

Got eleven of them out with much coaxing, copious repeated applications of Tri-Flow, a stud remover and a propane torch (MIG I got, but no gas rig).

Any guesses as to which ones were the hold-outs? Yes, indeed: the notorious end ones. One was already broken off when I snagged the head at the boneyard and the other I broke (despite being reasonably patient and careful). So far, I'm having no luck geting the broken ones out with easy-outs: the suckers are pretty much "rust-welded". Might be drill/Heli-Coil time.

The nipples up by the thermostat housing are also being pretty stubborn.

Seems like 8 of the manifold stud holes on this head penetrate the water jacket. I got curious and poked around with an ice pick after finding significant rust on the ends of several of the studs.

I thought that consensus was that only the end studs penetrated the water jacket...or does it just vary, head-to-head according to core shift and all?

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

I have drilled a starter hole (1/8") and kept increasing the size until I could get what was left of the stud out. You just have to be sure you are pretty close to center of the stud. Use a little heat on it and a pick and you can usually "fish" the threads clean. You can do it on the car but it is easier if the head is off.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

You may have already tried but I've had some luck heating the drilled stud and the area around it as red as I can get it without melting anything. Let it cool then try the EZ-Out. It burns out the rust or the piece of stud shrinks faster - I don't really know but it's worked a lot of times.

Do not try the EZ -Out while it is cherry red. I've had it work before but it's very unpredictable. It can break the EZ-Out with no pressure at all or turn right out. I guess it depends if you are using a 3/4" EZ-Out or a little tiny one for 5/16" studs.

If all that failed, I'd try the drill it all out and re-tap. A size "F" drill will take everything out except the threads if your hole is centered. An "F" letter drill is 0.257 dia. A 1/4" drill (0.250) would be very close if you don't have a letter drill set. Then very carefully tap the hole with a 5/16" tap. It's tricky and doesn't work sometimes. The threads from the old bolt spin a little and lock up the tap. You do not want to break the tap in the hole but they are usually pretty easy to "bust up" with a punch so you take it out in pieces.

If you have a very fine pointed pick you might be able to pick out the threads instead of using the tap.

I didn't poke around to find out how many of my holes went into water but I know it was more than 2 or 3. Maybe all of the bottom ones go into the water jacket.

Danny

Red
the complete top row and most of the bottom row of manifold stud holes on the head for the 83 D-150 are drilled completely through into the water jacket,, found that out as the replacement studs that I am using are fully threaded with with a coarse 3/8 thread,, they would would continue to run in,, till they ran into a head bolt boss or something way inside the water jacket...that would leave about a 1/4 of the stud outside the manifold face...

fixed it by using a chisel to put a real good wrinkle in the thread at the depth for normal engagement... and coated the stud threads with a coating of the bronze colored RTV prior to running them in,,

as far as getting the stuck one out,, can you get it under a drill press and drill it?

regards
DT

Thanks, Rick: sounds like a good approach which I will try tomorrow. I've already drilled all the way through the broken off studs and really don't want to break off an easy-out in there (been there, done that before).
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John and Danny,

"the complete top row of manifold stud holes on the head for the 83 D-150 are drilled completely through into the water jacket"

FWIW, the head I'm working on is a 2843169, "plug-tube" casting, which should date it somewhere from '68-'75, if I'm not mistaken.

If the stud breaks had left me some stubs, I would've tried the "weld-on-a washer-and-nut" trick, but they are both broken off below the surface.

When I said "11 out 0f 13 ain't bad" I was actually serious. When you consider how many decades the studs have been in there, I'm surprised I didn't snap off a couple more.

Below is the stud remover I used. Works quite well as long as you keep the base of the tool flush against the block (to avoid side-loading the stud as you turn it). With such dainty studs, really is a fine line between breaking them loose and twisting them off.

Oh well, we'll get there...

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

You should center drill them with a 1/8" cobalt bit then see if a reverse twist drill bit will grab and take them out. If not you'll need a couple more cobalt drill bits and a 5/16" thread tap.

-D.Idiot

Thanks, DI: something else to try.

Tried an appropriately-sized one of these in a tap handle (after more torching) this afternoon...alas without success. It "bit" into the stud, but I was afraid of snapping it off if I applied too much torque:

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

A dremel and small carbide bit to grind the stud out (if it broke flush)...

Time consuming, but you won't break an easy out.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

You don't need a Heli-Coil; see here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thats what I have always had the best luck using... heat from the drilling AND the reverse rotation is usually enough to get it to spin out...

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

That DOES sound like a better solution than a Heli-Coil, Dan. Thanks.

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

Got the end stud holes all cleaned out. This thing helped keep the drill running true/perpendicular:





I bought this device back during the '70s and the company has since gone belly up. You can still find them around, though. IMHO, they are superior to a similar item (currently manufactured by another company) which allows for angle-adjustment of the base, but doesn't stay locked into a given angle very well.

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

i never had luck with those stupid stud removers, best tool you can invest in, are the matco stud removers. i have a set for metric, and std. very bitchen stuff. and they work as installers as well.

I've take them to the machine shop. How it comes out? I could care less. Their charge is less than my time.

Acetelyne warms thing up a bunch faster than propane.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I've got one of those............

but don't have the box.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes