pump the brakes hit the lock do my burnout let off the lock, when i pull up the the line after that my brake pedal feels spongy, it goes away and the car still stops fine. is that common or do i have something going on that isnt supposed to be?

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

My line loc does not do that...
Do you have yours "plumbed as per the instructions?
Is the unit mounted up high, above the the master cylinder?
DD

Sounds like air still in system...

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

the instructions that came with it just said to put it inline. how far above the MC does it have to be? as of right now it is about 5 inches of line off of the MC directly under it bolted to the inner fender well

it feels like air in the lines but it goes away after a couple pumps. its a new MC that works great under normal driving.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Is the Line-lock between the master cylinder and the metering block or after the metering block?

As for it's mounting, you want the unit mounted below the master cylinder so you should be OK there.
DD

sounds like a master issue as he can pump it and get a pedal...

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
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If it is mounted before the metering block it is normal for it to get spongy the first hit or so after you release the line loc. It will also make the brake warning light come on sometimes.

That's why the instructions on the old Hurst Roll Controls told you not to do it that way.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

What causes this spongy pedal? It would seem that if all the air was out, all the air would be out? Just curious.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Just a guess Rick, but it may have something to do with residual valves and such. I honestly do not know why.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Yeah, I was just wondering. I just went out and hit mine about 10 times just to check it. I honestly could not tell any difference. I'll use them for the first time on the track Saturday if the weather cooperates.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

When I put the line lock on my Duster the pedal would go down first hit.

The one on the red car did not do that.

Duster was disc brake, Valiant is all drum.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I think this has something to do with the operating pressure difference between the front & rear sections, on a tandom (dual master) system... especially the disc front, drum rear set-ups.
Discs take higher pressures to operate vs the "self energizing" drum set-ups.

I'm with big D... install the LL after the "combination block", like the instructions outline. ( Yes... it's more work to do it that way but that is the correct way to install the unit)
DD

it is between the master and the prop block. i also have disc brakes. so i have to put it after the the block?

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c