sweet thanks man

Start by NOT sandblasting the dang castings! That's not only just about as good as melting them down (destroys critically-machined dimensions, etc.) but it takes what started as a smooth, nonporous, passivated surface and makes it a "gritty" porous raw-metal surface just perfect for corrosion. Once the passivation coating has been stripped off, the only way to restore corrosion resistance is to re-passivate the castings. The high-end carburetor refurbishers do this; the mass-production "remanufacturing" hacktories don't bother (and some jokers use spray paint...bzzzt!)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's a '70-'72 exhaust manifold. If you have the cup, make a gasket out of thin crushable high-temperature gasket sheet material (pre-cut no longer available) and install the cup, then install a #1231 Electric choke kit or a stock '70-'72 choke thermostat.

If you don't have the cup, make a blockoff plate and gasket and then use the #1231 electric choke kit.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Was gonna ask if any carb companies restore them properly? Can a carb be rebuilt with just a good cleaning then rebuilding as to not damage the coating?

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1964 Dodge Dart 270 four door. Three speed automatic 225 Slant with a Carter BBS carb.

dan, thanks, i always thought that this style manifold was an early, thanks for clairfying the year.

64, to be honest, i have ran several rebuilt carbs on several different motors, weather it be chevy, ford, vw... ive been a vw mechanic for 6 years and worked on quite a few different cars few years before, and ive installed plenty rebuilt carbs on customer cars, none ever came back with a corrosion issue. i know exactly what white film dan is talking about, and i usually see it on carbs that have been sitting directly in the weather, and like i said... just sitting. its not somthing i would ever worry about too much, unless you plan on parking it for months on end.

Today we have alcohol in 95% of the gasoline sold in North America. Alcohol brings water into direct and permanent contact with carburetor metal. We didn't used to have that. Now we do.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

FOUND THE CHOKE THERMOSTAT!
it had the wrong rod on it, but i did some surgery, and swapped the rod from a different thermostat i had. i couldnt find a good high temp do it your self gasket material, so i just used copper imbedded hightemp silicone.

how exactly should the choke be adjusted? also is there a write up on how to tune and adjust mixture screws and such?

Scott Smith who owns Harms Automotive in Washington state. He does great work. He isn't cheap.

I need to get a new digital camera and take some pics of my rebuilds after use. I somewhat polished a 273 BBD and mounted it on the Duster. I t has been on there for a couple of years.

I sometimes think about rebuilding the BBD's and BBS's but wouldn't want to listen to the flaming from nit wits that can't tune a carb.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I can tune the hell out of dual Ida's on a vw

Choke looks good......great job looks like the one the 273 intake.....

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1964 Dodge Dart 270 four door. Three speed automatic 225 Slant with a Carter BBS carb.

is there any discussion on how to tune everything the way it needs to be? that manual link posted earlier in this thread, vaguely explains on what needs to be done. the car seems to idle okay, but you can hear something isnt quite right, and with 10-15 mins of idling, it will start to run a bit worse, and eventually die. not sure if its a choke thing, or carb, timing, or valve adjustment issue. or a mixture

but i cant really adjust the valves when its hot, because it wont run very well.
so my first step is getting the carb and timing set correctly, so i can actually run it, to adjust valves, and then if needed be reset the carb/timing after.

i can tune a stock solex, and plenty of aftermarket carbs on a vw. but this is quite a bit different. id really love some help, and what should i be at RPM wise on idle?

There is a product in aviation called "Alodine".Its simple to use,mix Alodine with water to desired strength and immerse the casting or whatever in it for the desired time,the longer you leave it the darker the colour.With old castings I found bead blasting a necessity prior to using the product simply because you must have an absolutely clean,grease free surface so the solution is not repelled and an even finish is obtained.I have never used it on a carb casting (glass beads in carbs would obviously need extra caution) but anything aluminium will work with this product. Its only available in gold and is available commercially in other product names I believe.Hope this helps.

Whatever you use, make sure it is compatible with zinc die cast ("Zamak", "pot metal"), which is what Carter carburetors are made of. And do not blast-clean the castings, it is not necessary to attain the necessary cleanliness for passivation treatment.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

any suggestions on my last question?

Something's heating up. Pop off the distributor cap and put a hot hairdryer on the ignition pickup coil until it's good and hot, then replace the cap and try to start the car. If it won't run, there's your problem. If it will run, shut it off and put the hairdryer on the ignition module until it's good and hot. Try to start the car. If that's not it, put the hairdryer on the ignition coil and repeat the test. If no culprit is found, check for too-tight valve adjustment.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.