Hey Guys,

I've got a 318 2BBL carter super six set up and I'm having some vacuum hose issues. Right now, due to the mechanic I go to's error. I've got the power booster vacuum hose connected to my pcv valve hook up on my carb with the port on the intake manifold blocked off. I was wondering if it would hurt anything to just plug my pcv valve hose up to the port on the intake manifold itself? It just seems that the port that's in my intake now is a little small for the power booster hose and the pcv valve hook up is about the right size. If it needs to be hooked up to the proper slot thats fine, just wanted to see.

Also, I've got the bowl vent valve running to no where. I think I read that it's suppose to connect to a charcoal canister, is that correct? If so, I don't have one, looks like the person who owned it before me got rid of it. What do I do with the bowl vent valve in that case?

Thanks for all your help,
Aspen76

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76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

No, it goes to the port on the rearmost intake manifold runner. Your PCV hose goes on this carb fitting.
Yes, it'll make #6 cylinder run lean. The engine will run rough and you'll burn up #6.
Obtain and install the correct pipe thread/hose barb fitting.
Yes.
Fix the previous owner's ignorant hack, which probably also involved screwing up the fuel tank vent. See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Alrighty, Just went and hooked up the PCV up to the carb. This makes the whole car run leaner than it was without it, correct? My warmed up idle went from 700 to 900. So to bring it back down I just have to turn the idle adjustment screws (under the fuel inlet at the front of the carb) clockwise (both the exact same turn?) until it gets back to the 700-750 range?

Using a hose clamp, I put the power booster vacuum on my slightly too small intake barb fitting because Advanced Auto told me that they don't sell anything like that and that I'd need to go get one custom made... Where is my best bet for getting a replacement intake barb fitting because getting a custom one made up seems a little ridiculous.

I ended up finding my charcoal canister, disconnected except for the middle most port still connected to a fuel line. On page 244 of Petersen's Automotive Troubleshooting & Repair Manual there is a diagram of how this canister is hooked up on a V-8. I can tell that one of those lines coming from the carb to the canister is the bowl vent valve but what is the other and where does it connect to? Does it T into the PCV valve hose like the purge line in the slightly different diagram on page 242?

As always, thanks for your help,
Aspen76

_________________
76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

Not predictable -- depends on the overall effects of all the various wrong hookups you mentioned.
No, the screws on the front are the idle mixture screws. You need to adjust the idle speed screw -- there is only one -- to bring the idle to the 700-750 rpm range with the ignition timing set to whatever setting you'll be using (what to use depends on what distributor you're running and other factors) and all vacuum hoses hooked up the way they're supposed to be. You can plug the one that goes to the air cleaner thermal sensor, but don't leave any vacuum hoses open while adjusting the idle. Then once you've got the speed set correctly, recheck your ignition timing because it will likely have shifted a little. Reset it, the readjust the idle speed again (it will have changed with ignition timing change), then adjust the idle mixture, which will also affect the idle speed, so reset that, then readjust the mixture, then final-adjust the speed.
Last one I bought was right off the shelf at Home Depot. Made out of brass. If you need only one port on the manifold vacuum tap, you can get one at Home Depot (etc.), too. If you need multiple ports -- which you probably do, on that car -- then it's "go fish" for a good used one. The multi-port ones were used widely on Mopars with just about every kind of engine in the '70s through late '80s.
Big hose from bowl vent to "BOWL" or "CARB" port on canister.
Medium/big hose from fuel tank vent to "TANK" port on canister.
Smaller hose from carburetor purge port to "PURGE" port on canister.

If your carburetor is originally from a pre-1973 application, it will not have a purge port; in that case you'll need to tee the purge line into the PCV line. See the link I provided earlier in this thread (at the end of the sentence that starts "Fix the previous owner's ignorant hack").

The Petersen book is not meant to be used as a service manual with diagrams for your particular car -- it's to help understand the concepts of how the various parts of your car work.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The only fittings not in use at the moment on my carb is the EGR fitting and the "Heated air" fitting. Both of which are blocked off. I would hook up the EGR but the mechanic who set it all up for me got rid of the EGR when he blocked off my head riser. What gets plugged into the "heated air" fitting?
No purge port as you said, I'll tee it into the pcv line.
This is off topic but, if I have no choke set up then the fast idle cam does nothing? So I should either remove it or let it hang out of the way until I get a choke set up?
Thanks a lot Dan,
Aspen76

_________________
76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide