so i fired up my motor for the first time, broke it in, and now its time for the valve adjust.

im using an oregon cam grind #125. sheet says valve adjustment is .012intake, .014exhaust.i called them to confirm, and also they say thats a hot adjustment, which im sure we can all agree that seems tight for these motors. but to be honest, i dont know what characteristics a cam has that will need a certain valve lash.

i talked to joshua skinner who actually recommended the cam for me, and he said i should set initial lash at .014/.017 cold. well i just ran the motor, and the valve adjustment is .014/.017 hot, so looks like cam/lifter break took place.

now should i set the lash at oregons recommendations, what sort of lash?
i also should mention, ive noticed popping out the tailpipe once i let go of the throttle after reving in neutral. which usually means exhaust leak, but i looked at every possible area and dont see any leaks that could be taking place. my guess is the valve adjust is the culprit?

id love some input, thankyou!

Spec is .010 intake and .020 exhaust. That is while hot. You have to set them while the engine is running, otherwise you can't get them set accurately.


Edit: I guess I didn't read the OP's post closely enough.

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1985 Dodge D100 with Slant Six, Standard Cab Short Bed

That is the spec with a factory stock cam. Kielbasa does not have a factory stock cam, so the factory stock cam specs do not apply.

Kielbasa: Follow the cam grinder's recommendations.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i just set them to 12/14, and it popped even louder, and also, dieseled like crazy when i shut it off, i set them to 10/20, popping is almost gone, doesnt diesel, but somethign weird is going on. car sounds smooth, at idle, but doesnt feel smooth, kinda jerky. also stepping on the gas, almost kills it, then revs up.

i have no clue wtf is going on, seems if i do 1 thing, theres always somthing. never had a problem like this with any vw or chevy ive worked on.

This is likely an accelator pump or distributor advance problem.
What kind of vacuum is the engine pulling at idle?
DD

.012"/.014" might be slightly tight. If the valves are still quiet at .013" and .016" I'd try that. There is a fair amount you can fudge the adjustment and not hurt anything.

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Joshua

Its neither one of those... But do as Joshua suggested, then look at the ignition side of things... Sounds more ignition related than anything...

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

OCG 125 on their chart shows a 12/14 lash...I'd be tempted to start where Josh says or 14/18 and see what happens...maybe after 500 miles check it again and see if it works a bit tighter.

-D.Idiot

I set them to 13/16. Now something is going on, it would idle for a minute, then run like hell while I'm trying to adjust the valves. Reving it up wouldn't fix it. Shutting off key, then instantly turn back on, runs great for a other minute, then it happens all over again. Half the time dieseling like crazy, spitting fuel out the Carb

And doc, I don't have a vacuum gauge so I have no idea, sucks my finger pretty good when putting it over the hose while timing

I still say its in the ignition somewhere... JMHO...

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

What about ignition? Distributor? The magnetic pickup is a little wobbly but it worked fine before the rebuild. Everything is the same except Carb. Is there some kind of adjustment on Carb that would cause this, doc said something about accel pump. Maybe float level too high, I dis notice fuel leaking out of the vent when I first broke the motor in, after that I did not notice it anymore, maybe it was something to do with 10 mins at 2grand. How do I set the choke up with adjusting screws, and choke tension. Along with mixture screw

I think you have found some of your problem; the carburetor. You may have float issues, accelerator pump issues, and or some crud in the needle valve causing it to stick open.

Another cause of runaway idle speed can be caused by sticky governor weights in the distributor where light spring has trouble overcoming friction to pull weights back to stop. Timing stays advanced just enough to increase idle. Once engine is stopped, spring can pull weight back into place returning timing to base setting.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Distributor parts should not be "a little wobbly".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

How would I go about checking those Carb issues, the only manual I have come across for this Carb is not the.greatest

Carb info is HERE.

Float-

You will want to check two things- (1) the float is set to the proper height and (2) the float doesn't sink (brass floats can spring leaks, nitrophyl floats can absorb gas and loose buoyancy.

Accelerator pump-

You want to look down the throat of the carb (with the motor off) and make sure there is a healthy squirt of gas into the carb when the throttle is opened.


Needle and seat-

You want to remove the needle and seat and inspect to make sure they are clean. If the tip of the needle is at all damaged or worn, replace the SET with new ones.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.