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 Post subject: I hate to say it
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:42 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:08 am
Posts: 55
Location: Porter, Tx.
Car Model:
Though it looks like I am going to have to replace my flex plate and or torque converter, small rattle and or slight knock, just as acceleration starts, I did have an offer two days ago, guy wanted to know if I wanted to sell, at the gas pump, three years and counting, I know the tranny is good and shifts well, just a little giddy up then, goes away, F@@K

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1971 Plymouth Duster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:43 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:08 am
Posts: 55
Location: Porter, Tx.
Car Model:
Dont tell me the torque converter bolts...!!

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1971 Plymouth Duster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:59 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Ok, the torque converter bolts are still attached to the lugs on the torque converter.

But the welds have broken on the lugs.............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:05 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7430
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Pull the converter and flex plate. Install new ones.

There are other culprits. The bolts are a good one. I've seen it many times, but never on my stuff.

If the converter goes, it's a good idea to go through the transmission. It's about a 100 dollar bill for the parts. Automatics are simple. The transmission guys love that people think they are black magic. They aren't.

How did you come to the conclusion that the converter is bad? They can knock like the dickens, so I'm just asking. Heard a car come off a drag run, and you would have sworn it was getting ready to throw a rod.

Other parts can transmit sounds of impending doom through the engine and transmission. Sometimes they are harbingers of sudden failure, other times they are simple parts that aren't expensive.

We're here to help. What kind of issues lead you to believe the converter or flex plate are the fault?

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:07 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Car Model:
Or the slots on the converter have broken :cry:

Richard

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 6:18 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:08 am
Posts: 55
Location: Porter, Tx.
Car Model:
Prior to installation I saw no problem with the flex plate, the t.c. is brand new out of the box, I built the tranny my self, and it has worked from the get go, I torqued the bolts yesterday and its is just a little rattle that starts and goes away, does not last more than three to five seconds and its gone. I spent three days under that car, in the last five, the tranny was just fine, no noise , nothing , tranny fluid is good, I dont feel that the way the car was raised up to work on it would have been an issue, but possibly so

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1971 Plymouth Duster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 8:34 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
Hate to say it but...
During your "under-car" connecting rod bearing replacement process, I did not see the step where you carefully measured the roundness of the crank pin and the connecting rod's "big-end" bore. If you did measure, what were the readings?

In a nut-shell, that bearing can only tolerate about .002 max of accumulated out-of roundness... (the amount of oil clearance)
Anything more and the bearing "beats-out" some extra clearance and will likely fail again.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 9:01 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:08 am
Posts: 55
Location: Porter, Tx.
Car Model:
This is not a sound coming from the motor, but something that is entirely new that was not there prior to the low end service, I no longer have the rod knock, the bearing was correct , plastigage was checked and within tolerance, I am thinking that anything on the car that is original, forty years old original may not be up to the task of carrying all the upgrades and I am going to have to keep up with replacing those that are want to fail. Now if the crank is bad then I have to go back to my machinist and get him to correct the work. I have talked with him, and if I find that it is the motor and not tranny related, I will have to deal with that. At this time I just dont think it is motor related. I am gonna raise it back up do another full inspection, and thoroughly check the flex plate, Thanks much

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1971 Plymouth Duster


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