Hey all,

My new to me 1966 Dart wagon 225 pulls horribly to the left and clunks when I apply the brakes. A quick roll under the front end revealed a non existent passenger side strut rod bushing. It is my understanding that if I have to replace it, the LCA has to come off, along with the torsion bar and UCA. So I might as well replace the bushings for those as well.

I have been looking around for bushings (and kits) and I'm having a hard time figuring out which type to get. The reason for my confusion is that I'm finding that there seems to be two different designs for the strut rod bushings.

Do you have a preferred kit to use? I don't have sway bars. I prefer rubber, as this is going to be my wife's get around town with the kidlings car.


Thanks in advance, Mike

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

Don't have a preferred vendor for the bushings-- but use the improved design strut rod bushing. It is a 2 piece whereas the original is a 1 piece item, Lawrence

I second that; get the improved two piece set. It is basically what was used on the B body cars.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Great! Thanks for clarifying that for me.

Mike

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

mike,
to replace strut rod bushings after you've loosen both strut rod nuts- loosen lower control arm and take the torsion bar clips out the back. get a big pry bar and pry the lower control arm backwards- all the way so the strut slides out. don't forget to torque them properly and also the cupped side of the giant washer faces out.

careful handling things around the k-member. i fumbled one of my bushings in my clumsy fat hands and i lost it down an opening in the k-member

never to be seen again

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

thanks for the heads up.
regarding the method you describe, is it the one to use it if i don't want to replace the LCA and UCA bushings? it sounds like it doesn't require the removal of the LCA.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

Anybody else having dejavu?

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Yes. Its a way to do it if you dont want to remove Uca and Lca. Thanks to Doc, he's the one who told me about it.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

nice.

i might just go that route.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

Just be sure to take a close look at the lca bushings while you're there. If the strut rod bushings are gone then I wouldn't be surprised if the lca bushings were wasted as well. (Those'll give you wack handling when they go).

When it's time to go together, don't forget that the front suspension needs to be at normal ride height before tightening the lca pivots to spec.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

right on. they looks pretty good from here, but i'm wondering if it's like what i saw on my volvo. bushings that look good on the surface, but when you take them out, it's not so pretty.

i might as well go 'head and do it all. the only special tool i need is for the UBJ, am i correct?

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

The uBJ socket is the only "special" tool (some have used a large pipe wrench, but the correct socket is preferred). It can be easier to loosen the BJ if the CA is still attached to the car - otherwise you'll want a big vise that's securely mounted to a bench- that's securely mounted to the floor or wall.

If you don't have (or know someone who has) a shop press with the needed adapters, you'll need lots of cleverness to R & R the CA bushings. (vise, C-clamps, air chisels, sockets with threaded rod, MacGyver, etc)

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... +socket+12

Try that for ubj socket.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

thanks. i don't know anyone with a shop press and adapters, i guess i'll have to make do with what i've got. i work at a bike shop and have tons of seatposts. their ODs come in .2mm increments so i may be able to fabricate some adapters.
yess! i'll try that.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

The UCA does not have to come off. The LCA can be separated either at the ball joint or at the backing plate. You will need stout support for the UCA and spindle while working on the TB, LCA, and control rod.

FWIW: Usually when the UBJs have been in the control arm for a while, they can be very difficult to remove. When removing the UBJ, I use the special socket, a breaker bar, and a 6' "cheater" bar. I once broke a ½" ratchet head on this job using the cheater. Thank you for tools with lifetime guarantees.

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White