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 Post subject: no fuel to the engine!!!
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:26 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Location: Alameda, CA
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boy, yesterday was a doozie.

on our way home, my engine died. luckily, the freeway aid guy came along and helped me diagnose the problem which was that the fuel pump wasn't working, and towed me to the nearest o'reilly. on the way there, he suggested i get a universal electric fuel pump to get me home, rather get towed all the way back to the east bay (we were about 15-20 miles from home).
i got the pump, bypassed the bad one and it fired up. great! we jumped in and left. in my haste to leave, i forgot to reconnect the #1 wire which i disconnected to give me more room to work. the engine obviously had a miss, but i was too happy to be back on the road to pay any attention to it. it was getting late and i needed to get the family home.
well, half way there, as we were crossing the bay bridge, the engine quits again. once we got off the bridge (we coasted a good mile - glad i adjusted the front brakes - ) i checked the pump, it was still making it's buzzing sound, but no gas was getting to the carb.
i haven't been able to look at the car yet, but after checking the lines for kinks and such, what else should i be looking for? is there some sort of float in the tank that can get stuck? i do have a non haynes/chilton manual, which i will be consulting. it is just clear to me that there is knowledge, not available in any manual, that i can glean from this pretty awesome forum.
oh, i filled up two days ago and have a locking gas cap.
thank you in advance

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:23 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2005 6:38 pm
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Location: Seattle
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One place to check is at the pick-up tube in the tank. I have had these clog up enough to cut off fuel flow (esp. under load.) You will need to make sure the tank is less than half full before removing the sending unit/ pick-up tube.

There may be other solutions, but that's the one that comes first to my mind.
Good luck!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:50 am 
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I am guessing you put the electric pump somewhere in or near the engine bay -- that's not where an electric pump goes; they're pushers and not pullers so they need to be back by the fuel tank. They'll work as pullers for a little while -- kinda -- but not for long. Remove the electric pump and go back to the correct mechanical one.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:48 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Location: Alameda, CA
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Quote:
I am guessing you put the electric pump somewhere in or near the engine bay -- that's not where an electric pump goes; they're pushers and not pullers so they need to be back by the fuel tank. They'll work as pullers for a little while -- kinda -- but not for long. Remove the electric pump and go back to the correct mechanical one.
that is correct, i stuck it right on top of the mechanical pump. i had no idea about the push me pull you differences, and didn't have the time/tools/wherewithall to do it correctly. so you kind of answered my next question about keeping the electric pump - it cost $80 but i guess it's going in to the parts bin.

are there good rebuild kits for the mechanical pump? does any one have experience with the new pumps from o'reilly?

i guess now would be a good time to do the fuel line mod as well 'cause i twisted the line from the old pump to the carb.

thanks!

is there anything i need to worry about regarding running my engine on 5 cylinders? it was for about 10 miles, on the fw.

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1966 Dart Wagon
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:52 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
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Location: Maine
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You probably washed that dead cylinder down (with fuel) pretty well. Might be a good time to change your oil.

- Mac


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:51 am 
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Quote:
you kind of answered my next question about keeping the electric pump - it cost $80 but i guess it's going in to the parts bin.
I am not a fan of electric fuel pumps on carbureted engines. They tend to cause more problems than they solve. But if you do wind up keeping the electric pump (and installing it where it belongs, back by the tank) then the system needs to be designed correctly or you create very serious safety hazards.
Quote:
are there good rebuild kits for the mechanical pump?
Only for the '60-'63 bolt-together type pumps. The '64-up crimped pumps cannot be disassembled or rebuilt.
Quote:
does any one have experience with the new pumps from o'reilly?
Be picky and choosy. Reject a pump made in China.
Quote:
i guess now would be a good time to do the fuel line mod as well 'cause i twisted the line from the old pump to the carb.
Yep.
Quote:
is there anything i need to worry about regarding running my engine on 5 cylinders? it was for about 10 miles, on the fw.
It'll be fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:54 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Quote:
Quote:
does any one have experience with the new pumps from o'reilly?
Be picky and choosy. Reject a pump made in China.
I heard that... ahem, hear hear. Most of the broken things around the house are made in China.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:32 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Is it one of those cubish electric pumps?


They work with an internal check valve and can be used with the mechanical pump even if they're off.


I use one by the tank to prime the fuel system if the car hasn't been used for awhile, and then turn it off.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:36 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Quote:
Is it one of those cubish electric pumps?


They work with an internal check valve and can be used with the mechanical pump even if they're off.


I use one by the tank to prime the fuel system if the car hasn't been used for awhile, and then turn it off.
Unfortunately not. It's the Mr Gasket one.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... +universal

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:56 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Pictures 2 & 3 look like the type I'm thinking of.

The body is just round rather than square......


If you can blow thru it with your mouth, it can be at the tank side and off without affecting the mechanical pump.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:53 pm 
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Quote:
It's the Mr Gasket one
…speaking of Chinese fuel pumps… :-(

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:44 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Quote:
Quote:
It's the Mr Gasket one
…speaking of Chinese fuel pumps… :-(
sigh

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:42 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2012 3:07 pm
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Location: Alameda, CA
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Quote:
I am guessing you put the electric pump somewhere in or near the engine bay -- that's not where an electric pump goes; they're pushers and not pullers so they need to be back by the fuel tank. They'll work as pullers for a little while -- kinda -- but not for long. Remove the electric pump and go back to the correct mechanical one.
done!

primed the carb, set the choke, turned the key and she fired right up!

I got a mexcan made fuel pump from o'rielly, after inspecting and rejecting a korean made one from Napa. napa's pump was defective right out of the box.

the fuel line mod went well too. after reading the posts regarding this mod, i was afraid i'd have a difficult time sourcing the correct fittings, but they were easy to find at both my local napa and o'reilly stores.

thanks slant6 forum.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:45 pm 
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Quote:
I got a mexcan made fuel pump from o'rielly, after inspecting and rejecting a korean made one from Napa. napa's pump was defective right out of the box.
I have no objection to Mexican- or Korean-made auto parts on general principle, though as with parts from anywhere they must be assessed on their merits. What was the matter with the Korean pump?

(I do have an objection to O'Really? Auto Parts? because, like Autozone and Pep Boys and Checker and Schuck's and Kragen, most everything they sell is garbage.)
Quote:
the fuel line mod went well too.
Yayy!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 11:39 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2012 3:07 pm
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Location: Alameda, CA
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Quote:
I have no objection to Mexican- or Korean-made auto parts on general principle, though as with parts from anywhere they must be assessed on their merits. What was the matter with the Korean pump?
when i actuated the lever there was absolutely no suction at the intake tube.
Quote:
(I do have an objection to O'Really? Auto Parts? because, like Autozone and Pep Boys and Checker and Schuck's and Kragen, most everything they sell is garbage.)
yeah, you're right. and i can't say that Napa is all that much better. for my "newer" truck, i always prefer to get actual motorcraft parts, but that usually means a trip to the dealer. but what to do for our older cars? ebay for NOS stuff?
Quote:
Quote:
the fuel line mod went well too.
Yayy!
That's what I said

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4


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