Greg,

The 17# stock flywheel, what does the crankshaft side look like. Just curious since there are two flywheel styles depending on car vs. truck/ forged vs. cast crank applications. Just want to see if you have the standard car one with out the "ring/ridge" or the truck flywheel.

Good info, keep it coming.

-D.Idiot

Here You Go DI...



These are shots of the backside of the Flywheel I pulled from the ca and had cut.... I am really not sure if it was originally from a cast engine or not.. THis car had a lockup 904 in it back on 2004 - Then I put the OD 833 in.. Nit sure where I got they flywheel.







Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That's a car flywheel, I've found a couple on 1978 F-bodies as well...

The truck/late units have a thick ring on the back side...(which seems to help motivate fat a-bodies off the line due to the extra weight...which was probably needed to get a fat truck off the line when the engine got strangled by emissions requirements).

Thanks for sharing!

-D.Idiot

So when everyone says if you take a manual transmission over 5000 rpm its gonna come apart, what actually fails? Flywheel or the pressure plate?

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Typically the pressure plate in the clutch cover fails first. Cast (iron and aluminum) flywheels are illegal under SCTA/BNI regulations for Bonneville and El Mirage. I ran my road race car over 6000 RPM and nothing failed, but it's risky.

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Joshua

I've done multiple 6000-6200 rpm clutch dumps on street tires and either the 9 1/4" stock clutch disc withers out or the kevlar disc takes on too much heat and just slides around....I haven't had a stock flywheel come apart yet, but I haven't pushed one to the "extreme" (gummy slicks, high rpm, puck clutch, lots of HP).

-D.Idiot

I think multiple 6000 RPM clutch dumps is the extreme on a stock set-up. I had done the same thing many ,many times . Mine exploded on street tires on the 1-2 shift. I am telling you, it ain't pretty. No way I would even consider using the stock stuff for high RPM shifts. I like walking too much. Do a search on Greg's 69 Dart and look at the pictures of his explosion. I had the twin explosion to his.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The Local McLeod Dealer sent my Flywheel back to get the correct Bolt pattern drilled on it.


I reccommend to call McLeod Directly to Order your flywhyeel and Tell them to Order part # 464001 but to drill it with a stock Borg & Beck Pattern (McLeod PP Pattern #3 in their Catalog), & that you will be using McLeod # 360116 as your pressure plate - Ask them to drill this Pattern on your flywheel too.

I didnt have this problem in 2006 when I ordered # 464001 Directly but This time i Did - Hopefully I can get this all buttoned up in a week or 2.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Well After all the waiting for McLeod To get the Flywheel drilled correctly I got all the parts back and assembled in the car.

I clearly did not have all this trouble back in 2006 when Red Roberts ran the McLeod company.

Here is the Remaining install:

The flywheel is Back With 3 bolt Patterns on it Now.



It now has the Pattern to mount the Ford 10" Pressure Plate... YAY



I choose To use ARP Pressure Plate Bolts..





These bolts come with Washers from ARP and They are listed for a Ford under ARP Part # 150-2201 - They would work with your stock Slant Flywheel too



Flywheel Installed - Used Some Red Locktite on the Threads.









I will Use the Dinky Plastic Clutch alignment tool until I get the Press. Plate "Started" on the Flywheel.









After I Get the bots started just enough to hold the PP down (finger tight)
I swap my clutch alignment tool to an old Input shaft.. I find this to be less hasslesome and the disc does not "slide" around and fall out of alignment with this tool.






Once I get the disc in good smooth alignment with the old input shaft Then I start to crank the PP down in a criss-cross Pattern (much like the lugnut tightening sequence..) but just a few turns at a time at each bolt until the entire PP is bolted flush to the Flywheel and exerting full clamp load. (this process is much like putting a drum head on a Drum)





All Tightened up Flush to flywheel.









Remember the Clearance Notches I made HERE?
Here is Why I did that.. On the Dart the Clutch disc caught the Area of the PP near the bolt haed So A little clearance helps.


When I first Test Fit the Bell Housing on I coundnt get it to sit flush against the block..

No Problem.. I shimmed the clutch fork pivot too close to the engine..

I removed one of the 3 Shims I made and clearance as good.






I originally Had a stack of 3 spacers in there. Now just using 2. (this could vary with different TO beareings etc.. By the way Use a New stock TO bearing it will work if you are still using ma mopar's Linkage system.



One of the Bolts needed a bit of grinding so the Bellhousing would sit flat against the front of the trans Face.




The entire Set of Pics for this project may be found here:


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg thanks for the awesome write up with pics. I am putting a slant six with a 4 speed overdrive in my 48 Dodge Panel truck. The engine is going to to turbocharged, but nothing crazy. My question is, can I have the original flywheel redrilled without any issues? I'm just trying to save a few bucks, so I can get my hydraulic throwout bearing going as well. thanks

Hello, I have never tried to Put the Mazda/Ford 10" Pressure Plate Pattern on a Stock Slant Car Flywheel. I would imagine if you were using an 11" truck unit this would not e an issue.

You say with out Issues... Well this particular Pressure Plate Bolt pattern sits Very Far out on a stock Slant (car) flywheel.. the holes almost hit the Ring gear.. With The 2 Steel Flywheels (one in the Dart That Has had many High 14 Second Passes on it) this setup has never had any issues..

I do not know and Cannot speculate about the Stock Cast Flywheel holding up When the Holes are Drilled so near the outer edge of the Flywheel. I do know they hold up fine in steel.

If you continue this route, get the disc and Pressure Plate Part #'s Listed in the thread from Summit Racing and then take the Pressure Plate and Flywheel to a Very Competent & trustworthy Machinist to have the pattern drilled. It has to be centered spot on. I am not a machinist, Bu I know that if that part of the whole operation is messed up your project is shot.


Best of luck.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks Greg. I do have the truck flywheel, but I can't remember if its the flywheel out of my 67 truck or the 87 truck..

Wanted to resurrect this thread since the McLeod Ford/Mazda Pressure Plate doesn't seem to be available anymore. Any idea what the specific application in/was for, so we can cross-reference it with another PP?

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vm

Has anyone talked to Mcleod directly about this? Their online catalog leaves a little to be desired.

Ryan's PP was not in the catalog but they had it still. Hopefully this Ford set up is still available!!


Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Ya can still get the flywheel and clutch disc from summit. And one seller has the pressure plate on ebay. Im looking at $700 in just the clutch, flywheel, and p.p. that seems very high