Been working on getting the brake lines and cables ran on my ford 8.8 swap. I am using 2 explorer driver side cables and they are longer than the old cables, so I need to cut the stock "Y" shaped cable and swedge on new ends to make the cable shorter. What is the best way to do this. Any ideas on how to swedge the balls on the ends and where to get them from?

I would suggest visiting a marine supply place and have the cables done up all nice in stainless steel, but (1) plain steel never rusts in Tucson and (2) I doubt if there's a marine supply place in the state!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Try a rigging supply house.

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<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

I've used cable clamps with brake cables that were too long, two on each side.

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Joshua

Dan you would be suprised how much water we actually have in az, body of water wise. My uncle has a boat and rv repair shop a few hours away from me. Never thought to ask him.

Josh the thought of cable clamps never even passed my mind but I think that may be the way to go.

Just 2 months ago I could have done it at work. Make new stainless ones for that matter. Now due to goverment cut backs that shop is closed down. The place I am working now (aircraft repair facility) just gets new cables from the factory so no need for the cable swedger.

A little old topic, but I recently shortened OE front cable to work with the cables on the swapped-in Ford 7.5" The "Do It Center" near my work had aluminum cable swage stops in those plastic bins and I swaged them with a Greenlee Hex Die electrical cable crimper. As I recall I started with the 6AWG dies and then reset & final crimped with the 8AWG dies. As supplied the swage was too big for the 8AWG dies to get around without pinching, but the 6AWG die set did not close the swage down far enough for it to securely grip the cable.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite