I finished the k-member swap and went for a test drive today and there is a rumble coming from the engine that did not exist before the swap. Could it be the engine isn't lining up with the transmission? If so, what is the best/easiest way to line it all up? All I have to work with is a floor jack.

Thanks, Mike

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

It only happens when I accelerate. Once I let off the gas, it stops.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

The transmission aligns to the block via two dowel pins. Even if these were left out during assembly the bolts will get it close enough to where it shouldn't be rumbling.

Checked your u-joints lately?

I have checked the u joints and they are good. The driver side mount isn't in the best of shape though, but no worse than before I did the swap.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

This is what I did for the k-member swap:
Unbolted steering box, idler arm, both pass and driver side mounts
Put a jack under oil pan (with a block o wood) jacked engine up maybe 1 or 2 inches
Unbolted k-member and removed it
Lined up new member. This is where I had some trouble lining up the motor mounts, but after some wrestling I was able to get them in.
Where did I go wrong?
Could I have jacked up the engine too much? Please help!!

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

Inspect the engine / transmission assembly for any contact to the chassis.
Common contact points, front section of the oil pan touches the top of the K-frame.
Exhaust pipe touches the torsion bar when the engine torques over on acceleration.
The oil pump housing touches the K-frame...
transmission can touch the cross member if the rear trans mount is broken or "soft".
DD

Thank you sir.
Do I check this with the engine running?

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4

Dunno if ya could get it to torque over enough to 'check' it by just doing a free rev of engine. But to answer question yes and the only way i can think of to 'check' it is run it without a hood and watch for physical movement during acceleration.

I would rule out the other aforementioned possibilities first tho.. (ie trans mount etc)

Might go ahead and change the engine mounts to rule them out.

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Thank you sirs. The driver side mount is indeed shot, the right front edge of the oil pan contacts the k-member. I knew I shoulda replaced it when it was all undone. Live and learn.

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1966 Dart Wagon
1967 Volvo 122s
1989 Ford F350 4x4