If the stock 6.5 can still works then why not grind/ file/ cut the limiting tab a little to get more advance? I'm all for a "good" new part- if I can ever find one. Otherwise I reuse- modify- "make do".

Much of the time- all the parts houses have the exact same junk in different boxes. (alot of SMP's crap is from Echlin's supplier & vice versa)

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Thanks WagonsRcool,
Always learning....the one side looks easy enough. I have an idea for the side that is shrouded by the bracket. Just drill a hole in the bracket to enable a dremel bit some access....Thanks!

WagonsRcool: Hrilliant! Hadn't thought of modifying a pod for more advance before...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, I agree, Brilliant!


Not to beat a dead horse but both of the vacuum advance cans (Wells cv3015 / 9.5 stamped on the arm/ AG11 inked on can housing) that I have are acting almost identically which makes me wonder.
With the the adjustment screw turned to its lowest setting (with allen wrench) both cans begin to draw in the arm at about 8 in.Hg and by approximately 11.5 in.Hg the arm is fully drawn and is on its stop at the can housing.
I can continue to apply vacuum which does nothing to the arm except it keeps it closed until the vacuum bleeds down to about the aforementioned 11.5 in.Hg and the arm begins to withdraw (less timing advance) and by about the 8in.Hg the arm has fully withdrawn (no timing advance).
The only variance between the two cans is the rate that the vacuum bleeds off. One is noticeably faster bleeds off at a rate of 1 in.Hg per 3.5 seconds and the other 1 in.Hg per 2 seconds.
So they both act on the arm similarly when applying vacuum but bleed off at a different rate.
The old (assumed original) can holds a vacuum, Period! and I have reinstalled it.
My main reason for digging is to find out if the new cans are designed this way for a reason or if they are plain defective!
Thanks for your Help!!

And that's how they all should be and work...if it leaks it's defective (and can cause a small vacc. leak which can be significant for a 1 barrel)...
I have:

1) Drilling the hole works but can compromise the integrity of the flange and can cause the arm to be a bit cockeyes.
2) You have to tape the opening or the metal flecks and grit get into the pod and with the vibration of the engine will cause the seal to fail.
3) The vibration of the operation can also tear the seal and make the pod 'junk' at the point.

I've even used a flexible abrasive blade/file like they used to have for hacksaws cutting PVC in the 70's)...but #2 and #3 kind of come into play
if you are too rough with.

Try it on a dead pod first before going to a good one (I got a whole box of them things...)

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Thanks DI for taking the time. I didn't think it would matter with the ported vacuum signal but a vacuum leak is a vacuum leak, I guess in this case, no matter if it is ported or a direct intake manifold signal to the canister. I suppose at steady highway cruising when the vacuum advance would be full on is where these 2 Wells canisters mostly fail, because they would constantly require a signal or vacuum, fighting the small air leak into the system, to keep the advance working. Not so much in stop and go driving. Hope I am figuring it out... Thanks!