I have orange box ,correct dist,balast resitor,accel super coil .....no spark...have change coil three different ones.....where /how to trouble shoot ?????? power at coil when key on/off no power....keep it simple ...I hates electrics

Orange box: poor quality, worse reliability. Get a good American-made ECU from Old Car Parts Northwest or do the HEI upgrade.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan am not here to aurge or be put down for my choice in equipment


have run this setup for years in many cars/trucks....was working in last truck ....now is not .....need to know/where to test it please

Seriously, dude? Really? Wow, talk about missing the point completely! :shrug:

If you're really thoughtless enough to sit there with a straight face gripin' how I "put you down for your choice of equipment", then I'll stop wasting my time (and raising your blood pressure, I guess) suggesting what the problem might be and how to get your car running again quickly.

User hantayo13 is <IGNORED>

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think what Dan was saying is he thinks control box is bad , I would guess that it is probably the problem also, if you have a known good one like on a running car try swapping it, if not buy one and if it isn't the problem you will have a spare when it eventuality quits. Could also be pickup coil in dist or wireing from dist to control box I would try new control box first

While simple tests may prove an ECU bad, it's hard to prove one good. Substituting another box is standard procedure. Pickups rarely go bad, but I've recently seen a case with the reluctor-to-pickup gap was set too large and *some* modules ran OK and others wouldn't work at all, and was told of another case that the 5-pin connector wouldn't always make good contact to one or more pins. A bad coil that internally arcs can fry ECUs in short order.

First, check that that case is well grounded and that the top pin has 12V; next, with ign on, check that the (-) coil is at ~0.7V. I built a magnetic pulser that would induce a signal in the pickup, but lacking that you can connect a spare distributor and spin it and check for sparks, or just a spare pickup and make and break the magnetic circuit with a screwdriver.

Usually, it's just easier to carry a spare ECU and swap it if there's any
doubt about the one in the car... it's very hard to ensure that one is good. My orange box up & died w/o warning after 2K miles - since I carried a spare ECU it wasn't a big problem. I also recommend changing coils after ~1,000,000,000 sparks, as the internal insulation starts to break down.

Good luck!

I had a pickup go bad in my Duster. Plagued me for months with a start/no start problem at the most inopportune times.

The way I test them is to put a good digital DC voltmeter on the terminals, then spin the distributor and see if you get any voltage. The voltage will be very low, under 5 volts DC. Then reconnect the dist, go back over to the ECU, find the appropriate pins coming from the dist and repeat the test. That will tell you if the pickup is bad or you have a wiring problem between the dist and the ECU.

BTW, I had an orange box on my Duster. It didn't last a month before it just up and died on morning on the way to school. They suck.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

this was a running system when on "barney"....only unhooked hot wires and oved entiresystem to thios truck

guess I need to buy another ecu

Even though another box wouldn't hurt, you still need to check all of your wiring and the readings at the ECU connector.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

replaced box and resitor ...fired right up .....IT IS ALIVE

Dan
I am not mad/upset ...that old orange box saw more engines than I can count..... would rather use chrylser pouducts instead of GM

keep on roddin'
Indian