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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:11 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:55 am
Posts: 24
Location: mikkeli, south-savo, finland
Car Model:
firstly sorry if this is like the millionth time someone brings this up but i couldnt really find other topics so :|

a couple of hundred~ miles back i replaced the headgasket on my engine and I just realised I did something totally, terribly wrong... the torque wrench I had available at the time was more than a little confusing so I think i (because some one just showed to me how to use it right) torqued the bolts to half of the 65ftlbs required, like around 30.
yes I am this stupid. :lol:

the gasket in question is one of those fel-pro ones with a sizeable print on it that says no retorque.
my understanding is that the text means more like "you shouldnt need to retorque it" rather than "absolutely no retorque under any circumstance".


So guys whats your opinion on this, do I toss it or just retorque the bolts to the correct spec?
Also, strangely enough the engine runs just fine, i didnt even notice that there was water seeping into the oil until now.
-Not that ive driven around that much anyway.

I swear no one is this damn dumb.
*sigh*


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:36 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
Try a retorque to the required 65 ftlbs. and see if the gasket seals-up.

Basically... you have nothing to "loose" except for the time it takes to do the retorquing. ( and may-be a valve cover gasket. if it can't be re-used)
DD


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:06 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:55 am
Posts: 24
Location: mikkeli, south-savo, finland
Car Model:
Quote:
Try a retorque to the required 65 ftlbs. and see if the gasket seals-up.

Basically... you have nothing to "loose" except for the time it takes to do the retorquing. ( and may-be a valve cover gasket. if it can't be re-used)
DD
I thought so, just wanted some sort of a confirmation for it :D
Another thing im not so sure about is if ill be having to readjust the valves as well, somehow i dont think the heads gonna "sink" by a too meaningful of a distance but I dont know?
Not that I want to be cutting corners, so to say, just trying to avoid extra hassle....


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:27 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:45 pm
Posts: 578
Location: Orange County
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Of course you re adjust valves... your gasket is not fully compressed. I forget the gasket thickness on a felpro something is making me say .052? Probably wrong... but I'm sure not far off. Now the compressed thickness spec straight from felpros mouth is .038. Somesay they have measured it to be anywhere from .038-.045. Plus you have the valve cover off just start it up and do it. Let it warm up with cover just sitting on top. While you check to see how retorquing went.

Oh ya i would atleast loosen the coil/alt bracket from the block/head before retorque


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:51 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:55 am
Posts: 24
Location: mikkeli, south-savo, finland
Car Model:
Quote:
Of course you re adjust valves... your gasket is not fully compressed. I forget the gasket thickness on a felpro something is making me say .052? Probably wrong... but I'm sure not far off. Now the compressed thickness spec straight from felpros mouth is .038. Somesay they have measured it to be anywhere from .038-.045. Plus you have the valve cover off just start it up and do it. Let it warm up with cover just sitting on top. While you check to see how retorquing went.

Oh ya i would atleast loosen the coil/alt bracket from the block/head before retorque
Alright, I guess that would make it a meaningful distance indeed. Thanks!
I better damn well remember that bracket too :lol:


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