I'm a "LITTLE" affraid to install another starter in my car. It's killed two in less than a week. I can't find the source of the problem. Please help!

68 Valiant 100

Define "kill" a starter and give us some more info please.

Okay, to begin with... the other week I had trouble with current flow, the negative ground on the block was loose, so I tightened it (it's grounded to the water pump as it has been for 2 yrs). Three days after I tightened it, my starter was dying. It was sluggish, tired, and eventually stopped working altogether. Battery was/still is fully charged.
When that starter died, I installed another one I had around that worked perfectly fine (it was on my parts car). Two days after I put that on, all I got was "click" when I turned the key. So I replaced my starter relay. No difference.
Tonight I took a THIRD, rebuilt (works fine) starter and installed it. The first turn of the key I heard some noise up front, and now I get absolutely nothing. Dim interior light, no "click" when I turn the key... nada. The battery is still fully charged, I tested it on my mom's Dodge Spirit.
This car is my everyday driver, I REALLY need it back on the road...although I'm tempted to sell it right now... please help me!

If no click its the battery or relay, or wiring, simple as that. Make sure the relay also has a good ground and that none of hte wires fell off the terminals.

If you have to replace starter again I'd suggest getting a "mini" unit either from the wrecking yard or at local parts store. A parts store one (Ask for one off a 1990 Durango V8) should be in the $100 neighborhood.

You can test the starter outside the car by hooking it up directly to a battery via jumper cables. Make sure you hold it snug against something hard because it has a good kick to it when it turns on. I find it easier to hook up the cables to the starter, then the negative to the battery. Hold starter with one hand, and strike the positive against the battery with the other. Make sure the positive cable on the battery contacts both posts.

Ground the Neutral safety switch wire to rule out a bad switch.

Clean the battery terminals and terminal connectors thoroughly, and make sure the connections are tight.

Finally, make sure all of the wiring from the relay & battery to the starter is in good condition (no insulation cracks, evidence of burns or broken wire--especially the power lead directly from the battery)

Have you had the battery load tested? The fact that a battery shows 12-13 volts does not mean anything, if it cannot pass a load test it will usually not have enough amperage to crank the starter more than once.

-S/6

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The "Silver Bullet"
87 Ram D150

Good call on the neutral safety switch, I keep forgetting that bugger. I think my linkage needs a bit of adjusment because occasionally I have to shift into neutral to start the car.

How old are the battery cables themselves? If they are original, chances are there is a lot of corrosion wicked down inside the casing that you can't see. More resistance in the cables can cause the problem you are having. Also make sure the neutral switch is not out of adjustment, if you don't here a click when turning the key.

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"That thing gotta HEMI in it??"