That is truly sad!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

yea, i was thinking about it though, since i rebuilt the clutch master and slave in my other car no worries, and they have been working like champs for almost 2yrs now. maybe a rebuild if i can find it, but I will see tomorrow, kinda getting screwed at work, was only supposed to work a few hours, now its turning into a 7+hr BS shift,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

ok so i swapped out the prop valve with a unit from a '97 B-150, no biggy, put the reman master back on, bleed the master first, the went from RR to LR to RF to LF, 4 full pump and hold and crack bleeder, bubbles from first RR, few from LR, none from FR and few from FL. I am pretty sure i got them all but heres then thing, start car, slowly back out of drive way. push brake pedal down once, super mushy, to the floor, brake light comes on. pump it immediately again, not so mushy, brake light off, car stops better, pump a 3rd time and it stops rock solid. So is there air in the system or ???? I thought it might be a booster issue, pulled the hose off the engine and plugged both, didn't really help at all. I am getting damn frustrated with her at this point,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

well swapped in a giant 2 bolt master (1.34" bore) out of a '99 ford expedition, still got the same thing, put her ass up on jack stands this time, it was weird though it seemed when the pedal was let off you could see what appeared to be bubbling brake fluid in the rear section of the reservoir ( closest to the MC ) as the piston retracted. so I figured what the hell, swapped the reman unit back on, removed the distribution block, ran a T block for the front brakes and just hooked up the rears to the rear port on the MC, re bleed everything again, and I mean I bleed the holy hell out of them, and still am having the same issue, brakes barely grab the rear on the first pump second is when they actually grab, WTF ?!!!!!!

I am getting frustrated, I am wondering if a residual valve would do any good, I am seen listing for both a 2psi (disc/disc) and 10psi (disc/drum). BUt everything i have read says they are for when the MC is mounted below the calipers to prevent drain back. So I have to ask a few things:

#1 would a residual valve help keep fluid at the rear calipers ??
( if so which size ??)
#2 is the brake line routing correct, front brakes go to front port on MC, rear brakes go to rear port on MC ??



#3 Using the stock MC when releasing the brakes brake fluid squirts a good 6in+ straight out of the reservoir,what could be causing this ??

also I am assuming the big gold chunk to the right is a residual valve built into the distribution block, yes no ??




Thanks again with all the help guys,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

so a bit more research came across a post on a neon site that said chryco from 68+ disc/drum master cylinders the primary piston closest to the booster run the front brakes, and the front piston runs the rears, so for $#!+ and giggles, i switched the front and rear lines on the master, which ment cutting the ends swapping fittings and re attaching, and i can tell you this pedal is back to normal, no more kicking the firewall and in a panic brake and 2 foot slamming on the brakes all 4 lock up, on normal braking, normal easy braking slows the car beautifully,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Congratulations! Perseverance pays off - most of the time.

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!