Today I scored a used assembled head and (welded) intake manifold that were pulled from a stock appearing 1983 S6 powered pickup and have a few questions, but first the plan:

My plan is to retrofit this newer head and intake along with a regular production, but crack-free (that sounds weird) exhaust manifold on my '66 Coronet. Ultimately this car will be my better half's "fun car" and her idea of fun is driving like a Grandma, so no zoomey-go-fast stuff here. I plan to retain the heat riser and choke functions with hopes to keep it efficient and reliable above all. That said, I'm still pondering the idea of taking a whack off the head to bump the compression, but first things first:

1) Can I use the existing mechanical rockers/shaft assy from my '66 on this hyd style head without making any mods? I read the Engine FAQ mech/hyd differences topic and this seem OK, so if I got it wrong please tell me what I missed there.

2) Is the single barrel welded style alloy intake worth a snot and will it work with the old style exhaust manifold and carb? Should I worry about the porosity?/bubbles in the weld seams on the intake runners or is that a common sight on these things? The bubbly welds really look like crapola and I'd like to smooth them a bit but I already hear Murphy chanting so perhaps it's best left alone?

3) Would it be a good idea to have this head cut to improve the compression a bit or is this whole swap a good idea to begin with for a basic put-put "Sunday driver"? If so (and so), is there a general consensus on what to cut from the head for fitment on my stock '66 shortblock and using nothing better than, ahem, 'premium' pump gas?

Thanks in advance!

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

As far as I know the valve train should swap over from one head to the other. The only thing I am aware of is a possibility of the rear rocker shaft bolt/hole needing to be modified. Someone (not I) that has done this swap should chime in here. You will need the newer valve cover.

I do highly recommend milling the head while it is off, and maybe freshen up the valve job. Take some measurements, and mill the head for about 8.5 to 8.75 to 1 actual compression. If you are willing to do some advanced tuning (distributor recurve and carb jetting, maybe using mid grade fuel) go for 9.00 to 1.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I got a real nice old-style valve cover along with this stuff rather than the new style but I think I can go back for that.

For reference sake, the head # is 4095778 and here's a shot of the intake # 4105302 showing the weld bubbles that I'd like to sand off:

INTAKE PHOTO

(I can't figure out how to get the image to show in here, I used the usual [img]blah%20blah[/img] format without the spaces so I suppose I'm overlooking something)

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

if you don't like the look of the weld porosity, use filler material to smooth it, if you grind, you may open up more porosity or the original leak path.

Powdercoat it to fill the pores. Can get it in clear to still keep the "charm" of a welded intake.

Thanks for the info and advice.

I got the correct valve cover yesterday, it was a freebie and shortly thereafter, discovered two bent pushrods in my engine
I guess getting this head was good timing or maybe a curse, I dunno, but onward we go. The engine is packed with sludge, probably the worst I've ever seen and the last fuel that went through it was like a mix of varnish and gum but I'm lucky there also, a new tank, sender, pump and carb kit are already on the shelf. I guess thinking ahead is working for me this time

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1966 Coronet Deluxe