_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

That sounds like one sweet project!

Lotsa goodies goin' into that one!

Have you already gathered up most of this stuff?

Here's my '72 Swinger...



I like to turn left and right as well.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I have quite a bit. Aside from the interior, the 8 3/4 is ready to go back together after I cleaned it up, put in new clutches and moved the perches. I have a good lead on a later (cast) replacement slant to keep the car mobile while I rebuild my motor. I have the K, control arms and spindles. There is a built 200-4R locally. If I miss out on it, I'll go through CPT.

A lot of the other pieces depend on what I can get out of the heads, and in what shape my block is in.

Is this the right section for my build?

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

Correction: Head

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

Not needed if going mech/solid lifter cam...helpful if going to use a hydro cam...

If going with an OD tranny and all that stuff in the motor, start looking for a 3.55 or 3.91 pig for the 8 3/4"...

Sounds like a fun project overall.

-D.Idiot

Yep! This here's right fine!

'Course... It's called "Slixer's Gallery"... So you gotta post up some pictures!

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Here's the pics from the original Craigslist ad...


Love the Valiant grille!

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

Sounds great!

I agree no need for standoffs if you are using any kind of reasonable turbo cam. I run big NA solid cams and have never done it.

Make sure you make a killer oilpan (3/4-1" deeper, wider, baffled, precise pickup placement....) or go dry sump or accumulator for ultimate safety.

You will be shooting for well over 500 HP with that hardware.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I knew the quarters weren't in great shape. I started poking around on the passenger side where the paint had mysteriously cracked...?


Pretty soon, I'd gone past sanding and was using a scraper and stripper, taking off layers of professional grade filler...


By the time I was done, I found the root of the damage. Between the door and the wheelwell, the car had been hit. The shop beat the panel back towards straight and then made the body contours out of filler.


New quarters are on the list, so I'm not worried, just glad that I paid $600 for a running vehicle...

When I was done investigating, I gave it a quick coat of Appliance Almond...amazingly close to a faded, dirty W1 paint code!

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

I throw most of the parts that I acquire through an electrolysis bath to de-rust them. If you haven't done this, it's amazing and simple.


After a couple hours...


Overnight


Of course I was too excited when this 742 case came out to take an "after" pic, but it was beautiful...clean, clear cast iron!

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

I picked up a 1969 Charger rear axle. I built a box to soak the axle in.


This was rust going in. I added a steel rod through the axle tubes to clean it inside and out.

After...


Closest you're going to get for "Before" and "After" pics from me...

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

I plan to use the MP offset shackles and hangers, so instead of moving the spring perches 1/2" on each side, I needed to move them 1 1/4".

I've never done this before, so if it's wrong, let me know...

Marked for 1 1/4" inboard


Wow! Chrysler used a heavy perch!


Cleaned up


Diff face at vertical


Other perch at 5 degrees


New perch lined up...


...and at 5 degrees


Tacked


Verified and welded


I welded each perch in 4 sections...front half / back half on both inside and out. I'm pretty comfortable that I kept the heat to a minimum.

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

Cool.
What is the bath recipe, is a battery charger involved, and if so what type?

Looks as if (+) lead on steel plate submerged in soup, negative on part; electrons flow from negative to (+) scavenging iron oxide from part. Did I get this right?

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

You got it!

1/2 cup of Washing Soda (laundry aisle, Wal-Mart) per gallon of water. Positive to scrap. Negative to part. Bigger battery chargers work faster. Don't use Stainless as your scrap...poisonous. Don't smoke or open flame near it...boom. Google "Rust Electrolysis" for better details.

Time varies on part size and level of rust. Hook it up, come back tomorrow...

Scrub with soap and water when it's done and blow it off with air...

_________________
Brooks

'72 Dart Swinger
'71 Plymouth 'Cuda

Cheap, Fast, Reliable
Pick 2!

Thanks The_ engineers.

After asking for the recipe, I sat here thinking what a lazy ass I am not being able to cut & paste into Bing "Rust Electrolysis"… so I did after listening to a never ending Primal Burn weight loss add. As one can see there is not much happening here this morning prompting a soft start; and yes, there are several electrolysis methods listed, yours being safest sans stainless steel. I think stainless gives up chromates which EPA is rather down on these days being released into environment.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC