I have a donated set of springs from a Jeep. I was thinking of beefing up my 4-spring, original 1967 springs with an extra leaf. Anyone have a tip on how to proceed? I was going to take shorter Jeep spring and add it to the short spring surface of the leaf springs on the car. Maybe stay cheap with some home made clamps.
Question: should the clamps be tight, or should the leaves be able to slide over each other along the long axis?

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

I fully understand the desire to do it on the cheap. But given that your springs are now 45 years old, I would seriously consider going the full route and replacing the set of leafs. In e end you'll spend about the same amount of time, and get much better results.

- Mac

Your opinion may be slanted, but I can't really come up with a good argument against it.

If certain people would just pay me what they owe me...
but that's another story.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

What's the goal here? Increased spring rate? Increased ride height? Both? What is the intended use of the car?

Adding a long leaf under the current main leaf will help control axle wind-up (spring-wrap) and increase the spring rate, but will not do much for ride height. If you want or need more ride height you'll need to re-arch or replace your springs. If the money were available I'd buy new 5-leaf springs from Espo unless you're also increasing the front suspension spring rate.

I highly recommend reading How to Make Your Car Handle so that you get a good understanding of how your suspension is supposed to work and the effects of changes you might make. http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-Car ... 0912656468

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Joshua

The t-bars are 1", so I'm trying to increase spring rate, as well as add a small amount of rear height, just so the back doesn't look low. I might try adding a leaf just to see what it does, while I save my nickels. The front is at spec. height now.
The car is for buzzing around town and non-extreme highway driving. It goes on dirt roads occasionally.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

One long leaf may do what you want, but if it gets tail happy you'll need to shorten the rear segment of the spring. If the ride height increase isn't enough you'll need to have the springs re-arched.

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Joshua

You may want to investigate leaf springs from a 150 series full size Dodge van. They might be a direct bolt in or are a good source for an extra leaf. Try and find the latest model you can and look under the hood at the data sticker and get a set from the highest rated load capacity you can find. 150 series vans had load ratings varying from 1150 pounds (passenger carrying model) up to 1950 pounds.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I'll look into the van springs. I almost impulse-bought a set of Hotchkis springs, but my wait until the next morning policy prevailed. No more auto parts until if/when I get paid.
In the meantime, I can experiment with adding a leaf. Strictly for the novelty value.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

The van springs aren't a direct bolt-in. Unfortunate because they are less expensive for some reason.
The super stock springs at Summit are not expensive, but I've heard they have too much arch for street handling.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

Besides, the Super Stock springs were designed for drag racing. They load the right rear wheel more heavily for better traction "off the line". I've heard that they will tilt your car to the left. Of course, if you're goin' racin'.....

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

What makes them not a direct bolt in and what is required to fit them? I have a set tucked under my brother's Duster for future use but haven't gotten around to fitting them yet.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Info from General Spring, which looks like a cheap source for springs, BTW.
A-bodies have a 20" front section and 35" rear of the axle, while full-size vans have a 23" front length and 30.75- 31" back of the axle.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

The mopar performance circle track springs are like $85 each and are decently stiff and low. The front section is 1/2 inch longer, you could get special hangers or you could drill your original ones.

Crap.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Just get the heavy duty leaf springs from ESPO. They are great folks to work with. I love my set! They provide a great stance and match ride with with the V8 360 torsion bars. It is a fantastic upgrade....

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Aggressive Ted

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG