i know you guys have heard this before,but here goes.have a 83 ram pick-up.225 slant.overdrive 4.planning a build up.have the performance distributer upgrade.single out header.offy 4 manifold.edelbroch 500 cfm carb.made a adapter (just a block really)to bolt under the offy where the factory manifold connects to water heat the intake.i need some guidance,as this is my first slant buildup.60 or 100 off the head?already unshrouded the valves.port matching done.crank is polished.are the bigger valves worth it,for a street truck?cam?kind of looking at a comp.260h.also have a hemi/rb 4 speed that i machined an older bellhousing for.any and all tips would be appreciated.know about the oil pump.i have been following this forum awhile,and would say i am lucky to have found such a great group of people.tech on and many thanx in advance.

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there is only one...

bigger valves and more compression along with porting, headers, and more carb will make a KILLER difference of course you really forgot to say what you want to do for the truck, if its a "daily driver" street only truck then i'd leave the bigger valves, bump the compression up to 9:1 (you'll have to CC your head before you know how much to take off) take the valve guides down (per docs "cylenderhead article") mild camshaft, offy with 390 Holley and a single header flowing through a 2.5" free flowing exhaust.

as for the "HEMI" 4spd, i'm not sure you'd beable to get a slant clutch that was 18spline so that could be a problem.

Justin

You don't need the whole clutch. Just the center disk with the correct OD (10"?) and the correct spline.

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My truck is a Frankenstein creation
Built from the dead carcasses of others
And brought BACK TO LIFE!

On my T Bird throttle body, I hooked up a 3/8" hose from the 'before' throttle plate hole and ran it to a solinoid valve. The outlet of the solinoid goes to the inner side of the throttle plate. The valve is controlled by the ecu fast idle feature for colder weather operation.

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Cheers!
Al T

truck willnot be a daily driver.has anyone used a 260h comp cam?what valves to use?what is the deal with 300 inline ford valves?are the stems much smaller?if so,would that be the ticket especially with a smaller cam like that afformentioned comp.i would like to keep the hydro lifters.i dont really care for holley carbs.the edelbroch will be fine with mods.

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there is only one...

Ford 300 valves are the right stem size for the slant and close to the right length. They're bigger than the stock valves -- just about as big as you can go with the 3.4" bore on the /6. They're readily available and cheap. If you want valves bigger than OEM, you're only other choices (as I understand it) are the custom (ie. expensive) aftermarket valves.

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My truck is a Frankenstein creation
Built from the dead carcasses of others
And brought BACK TO LIFE!

Hate to say it but thats not the case I just got the Ford 300valves put in my Slanthead like 3months ago. the Valve stems are smaller (11/32) and they are exact on the length... thus changing the guides and making up a way to get valve seals and retainers are the only real tricks...
I test fitted the head on a spare block i got out of a 79Apsen and the exhaust valves touched alittle (DOH forgot to clean the block up.. cleaned all the carbon and it fit perfect)

To really get the flow you need to notch the bore. havent tested the head yet b/c i'm just finishing porting the SNOT outta it... Reed has a head with Ford 300 valves and he says its amazing the difference, however the large valves seem to take away some low end, but really wake the motor up.

Justin

oops -- need more coffee.

I'm doing research for a similar build: "improved" /6 in '84 truck. Need to go back and check my notes to see if I got it wrong there too...

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My truck is a Frankenstein creation
Built from the dead carcasses of others
And brought BACK TO LIFE!

mmmm coffee :D

haha, yea i've revised my plans on my enginebuild, by the time parts and labour came in on the original build it would have cost like 4grand

so i'm going to get a sweet bumpstick with a 3000rpm stall converter, "Manual-pak" A-904, Modified Offy with 600cfm holley specially tuned, recurved distributor, Modified MP headers, Cylenderhead thats been shaved close to .125" (undecided but i'd like to go that much ) ford 300valves, ported the snot outta it... i hope for low 15's or high 14's with 3.55SG 8.75 rear end on slicks before the 100shot of Nitrous

Justin