So there is a crack in my exhaust manifold and I am wondering if there is any temporary fix for this as I can not really afford to buy a replacment

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

Where is the crack? You could try cleaning it up and using high temp JB weld. Don't know how long it'll hold, or it might hold as long as you need it to, depending on the location.

Less than 15 minutes. I've tried it.

Well shoot. An actual weld would hold up, I would think, but I don't know if you have the equipment. Exhaust manifolds aren't that expensive though.

Someone who is good at brazing might be able to braze up a crack (drill a hole at each end to keep it from spreading), but the price to pay someone to braze it will be comparable to getting a different manifold anyway.

I agree with Reed's assessment. I have the equipment but lack the experience to do this properly and the cost to have mine repaired properly by someone that actually knows what they're doing is well above what I paid for a solid junkyard replacement.

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

If it's done right on cast iron, all exerienced welders say ni-rod to repair if you want it to be a durable repair. There aren't that many experienced welders that can do this job (about 5 in 1000 certified welders if you want it done right the first time).

Got a pic of your manifold by chance, especially the choke pocket?

-D.Idiot

Hi, I guess the only thing than can hold it fixed forever is the bronze. Try to ask for someone who welds with bronze.

I used it to fix a manifol adaption and also to cover the heater of the axhaust manifold with a steel piece.

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Mopar or no Car!

Not sure what the chock pocket is, but I will get a picture best I can this afternoon. The crack is right in the middle of the end piece that goes under the intake manifold.

Id buy one from a junk yard but I have yet to find a car I can get one off of. and theres only about 3 junk yards around where I live. Other than that a new manifold would be upwards of like $355 which is something I just cant do right now

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

Choke pocket images and other great info is found in the Articles section.
Go To - HOME>ARTICLES>SUPERSIX or MANIFOLD INSTALLATION etc......





In his post above, this is what D.Idiot was referring when he said choke pocket. A good image of that and the crack would help.

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

Just asking, as I may have a spare manifold laying around, if it matches yours (choke pocket style is important) I could ship it to your for $30?

-D.Idiot

I know that JB weld is a near instant fail on manifolds/headers/cats but I do wonder about a Hi-Temp mortar for a temporary fix until the budget improves?

I haven't tried it yet, but my local home center (Menards) sells a silicate based fireplace repair cement, you can see it on their website here:
http://www.menards.com/main/p-1705843.htm

Their description says working temp is 2000F.

It might be worth a shot if you have zero budget but are willing to take the time to pull the manifold and thoroughly clean the area and I think it might actually stick for a while if you etched the crack area by sandblasting first??

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

There you go, such a deal! Not having to ship cross-country is a bonus!

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

That would be so awesome and I will take a picture when I get home today.

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

The problem with this stuff (I work construction...), is that brick and CMU are porous and allow this stuff to get trowelled into place...also the chimney isn't going to expand much compared to iron and after 'cement' is poured it shrinks a bit...Also the exhaust pulse exerts pressure on the walls of the manifold...If put into place the plug may seal...then it might crakc or fall away...or worst case scenario it looks good and he steps on the go pedal and it blows out again...

-D.Idiot