Hello,


I have a 77 dodge 4 wheel drive truck that I recently set the toe on.

The 2wd trucks front sus. arragement is much the same as mopar cars of the era and I have found out how to set the toe and then center the steering wheel on the 2Wd without too much hassle.. but the 4wd is giving me some trouble.


First let me state that on my (4WD) truck just turning the center link in one direction does not change the toe adjustment.. It just moves the center link from one side of the truck to the other..


I had to set the toe on this vehicle by taking off one tie rod end and then spinning it it a bit or out to set the toe.. While theving the other one in place.

After setting the toe to specs I then tried to center the steering wheel by adjusting just the center link (which is like on big / long tie rod. I was able to move it side to side and one rod end would have less threads as the opposite side would show up with more threads but then the center of the steering wheel would not change at all.


Any Ideas on this are helpful.

Thanks,

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

If your steering linkages look like the one I posted the way it is supposed to work is you adjust toe by rotating the horizontal "center" link bar. It is the one connecting the front knuckles. You adjust steering wheel centering by rotating the link that goes diagonally from the passenger side up to the steering box. If this is not how yours is set up then I have no clue what design it has or how to adjust it.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li ... eering.jpg

Thanks for the help.


No mine is not setup like that..


That would make sense to me.. but I do not have that diagonal bar.


The steering box is mounted sideways on the frame and it "pushes/ Pulls" a drag link(that's what the service manual calls it) that is connected the the LF knuckle.. there seems to be no adjustment that I can find..

Greg

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I am not sure if this will work on your set up. But I seem to recall something like that on my budys 83 w150 about a year ago after we did a lift.

I believe we disconected the drag ling from the steering box at the knuckle. Then addjusted the alignment on the toe ect. We then turned the wheel back to center and reattached the drag link to knuckle. I took a couple times cause it was like 180* off r something like that.

Do you have this nonsense steering system?

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 2569e0f7da

I will try to remember to look it up in the hunter database at work to see what they say if anything about setting toe and steering wheel centering. But if it was mine I would probably find out if the fore aft bar to the knuckle uses the same taper as any available tie rods. I don't see any reason that you can't add an adjustment point there.

Yep That's the one I have...



The steering box on the mopar is on the outside of the frame, but that's the basic idea.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg, You have 2 adjustments? the long rod from tire to tire.the short from steering box to steering knuckle.?
If you do the long rod should adjust the toe, the short to center the wheel. If your adjustment on the short is off (too much threads to one side)you may have to remove it, (with the tires set straight ahead) Center the steering wheel, measure from eye of pitman arm to eye of steering knuckle, set your short arm accordingly reinstall. IF the short arm is not adjustable your S.O.L. and may have to remove the tie rod ends at the tires to center the wheel. I just was working on a 93 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 and the short arm is not adjustable.

Greg, You have 2 adjustments? the long rod from tire to tire.the short from steering box to steering knuckle.?
If you do the long rod should adjust the toe, the short to center the wheel. If your adjustment on the short is off (too much threads to one side)you may have to remove it, (with the tires set straight ahead) Center the steering wheel, measure from eye of pitman arm to eye of steering knuckle, set your short arm accordingly reinstall. IF the short arm is not adjustable your S.O.L. and may have to remove the tie rod ends at the tires to center the wheel. I just was working on a 93 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 and the short arm is not adjustable.

Nope Just one adjustment..on the long rod.. Short rod is fixed length.

Is there an adjustable short rod that I can retrofit on to the truck?

So yes I need to start all over from scratch and Remove the Tierods to reset the wheel to center..

Ugh... Sounds like a spring project..


Is there any manual/instructions online to help set this up from scratch??
The 1977 Dodge Truck service manual is not help in centering he wheel.

Greg

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Take the steering wheel off.

Rotate a spline (or 2 or 3)

Put steering wheel back on....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

On the 93 The coupler to steering box was shot. the aftermarket replacement is a short shaft that goes from the rag joint to the box with a u-joint coupler and is not master splined so you can set the wheel anywhere you want. Jegs # 153-000940. It says 1979-93 $190. BUT to center the steering ''Gear'' you will still have to pull a tie rod.
I just mentioned the coupler shaft because it is common that they are worn and may not be rebuildable.

Can't do that on chrysler products. They used a master spline on the steering wheel, upper column shaft, lower column shaft and pitman arm.

I do wonder if the oddball push pull box has a clocked master spline for the pitman arm. If it doesn't you might find the adjustment you need by rotating the arm on the box.

How far off is the wheel?

Yes I had the Steering Gear Rebuilt a few years back by steer n gear.. They rebuilt the one I pulled from the truck.. It used to wander all over the road and when you are pulling with a short wheelbase that spells disaster quick.


Anyway I do have master splines on the steering box/ Pitman arm.. and I do need to Check the steering wheel splines and rag joints etc.. but I know the chryslers have the master spline on them so just pulling the wheel will not work.

I would say the wheel is about 20* off to the left. (meaning that if I center the wheel the truck drives right (off the road))


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Huh,

My '86 W150 has this exact problem.. I've tried every reasonable solution short of pulling tie rods and messing with the alignment. It used to drive me nuts. I've had the truck for six years. During those six years, I've gotten the Valiant, and my Fury.. The wheels in those cars are exactly the same amount off as well. Now I don't notice. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Oh well, it puts the third spoke of the wheel at 5:00, right in between the first and middle fingers on my right hand. Comfy.

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63 Valiant 200
64 Dart 270
73 Fury II
84 Cherokee 2 dr
86 Dodge W-150
73 Volvo 144
74 Volvo 145
81 Volvo 245

The frame holes where the steering gear is mounted are slightly oversize. Center the wheels, then loosen the steering gear and move it as required to center the steering wheel. If you cannot center it, check the frame for bends/damage. The FSM gives the checking dimensions in the "Frame" chapter. Use a plumb bob to project the checking points onto the floor, and make the measurements there. You can project the points onto a sheet of paper or cardboard, or just put some pieces of masking tape on the floor. iirc the steering columns on trucks do not use a master spline, so the steering wheel can be relocated relative to the column.

Ken