After talking with Agressive Ted for a little he recommended a cold air duct for the carburetor (a Holley 1920). I am going to keep the stock air cleaner with the snorkel but I have two concerns/questions:

1. How do I prevent water from entering the engine directly with the snorkel to the outside? The hose will be routed onto the left inner fender well behind the battery and down to the core support to one of the large holes next to the radiator.

2. If the engine gets cold air all the time, especially in the winter, will the Intake Air Temperature sensor switch the air flow from hot to cold as designed or will special provisions need to be made?

Thanks.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

1. You don't, however, there is the grill in front that sheds some of the water and if there was any it has to go up about 6", to get to the snorkel inlet. I have driven through some horrendous rain storms and for fun pulled the air cleaner top to find it bone dry. I have never had any water collect in the hose either. Not sure if just atomizes with the rush of the air, but it has never been a problem over the past 10+ years.

2. My intake sensor works very well after all these years. I check it from time to time by pulling off the air inlet hose and sliding a screw driver in to check to see if the door is up which pulls hot air from the stove first thing in the morning. Works like a charm! per the design.

I think not having the fan blowing over the intake helps a lot on cold mornings. Warm ups are quick, throttle response and mileage is good!

This is one of the best mods I have made after re-curving the distributor and bringing up the compression and going to a super quiet 2.5" exhaust system.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Just to be clear, the preheated intake air is for warmup only, correct? This has nothing to do with keeping the carb deiced?

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

hey ted.

i am getting a snorkle setup for my 73 (original was pointed at the firewall!?!?) with the front drivers corner inlet. anyways the valve in there, do i need to have it hooked up to the temp valve on the rad or does it just have a line to the carb (baseplate right next to choke pull off on 1920)

thx

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Hey ILMopars,

Mine is set up like your saying yours will be. I've never had issues with water like Ted said. I have my hose completely covering my snorkel and the heat provision completely covered. I have no issues starting, warming up, or driving ( I live in FL as well so ice isn't an issue, also I have the exhaust manifold heat provision still hooked up).

Aspen76

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76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

Generally speaking yes on your first sentence when temps are in the 40's. On your second sentence no, it has everything to do with deicing. On real cold days (below 20) it will keep pulling air from around the stove. The system is self regulating (it will adjust for correct air temp) due to where the temp sensor is mounted in the base near the carb throat. So no ice up problems in the winter when everything is connected per the factory specs.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

1. No, not to the radiator.
2. Hook it up to the drivers side base plate fitting. It needs to see full vacuum.
Be sure you hook it up the right way (don't reverse the vacuum lines) or the door won't open.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

do you have pics? i dont have anything to reference off of yet

_________________
1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Ok, thanks Ted.
For a reference point, stock with weird tuning car does 0-60 in 13 seconds with air temp at 30 degrees or so and 890 feet above sea level

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

No, I just hooked it up and when it didn't work swapped the hoses. There are pictures in the owners manual. They are also posted in the Dart manual. I would pick up one or get an owners manual off eBay. Over the years Reed and others have posted vacuum line photos. Just hook it up while your holding it, you will know right away if the door opens.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Should the hose be black or left in bare metal? I'm thinking that the hose should have some way to keep the air from getting hot from the underhood air.

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Describe what hose your talking about?

The only hoses involved are the black vacuum lines.

The other connections are stock MOPAR ducts. The stock heat stove duct is aluminum and comes in black. The 3" inlet duct is black wire reinforced plastic.

If you need a reference click on the red link below my name to view the pictures.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I am going to use an aluminum hose to the snorkel. Should I leave it bare aluminum or paint it black?

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.