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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:17 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:37 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Car Model:
Hey everyone, I'm building a slant for my drift car, but the thing is,
I won't have enough money to have the proper turbo setup this season.
So I figured I would go ahead with the n/a stuff before I get the turbo setup on (so I have close to enough power to go sideways...) Anyways,
heres the plan:

Ported/polished 1973 head milled .200 with ford 300 valves
Comp cams .440 lift cam with lifters and valvetrain.
Super six intake manifold with 500 cfm carb (undecided on which carb).
Polished exhaust manifold with 2 1/2" straight pipe back.
3.55 gears out back.
All new gaskets, using royal purple oil, and premium gas.

I know its hard to have a good estimate on power because of weight and such, but if anyone has the same setup, let me know how it is please.

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car


Last edited by RyGuyTooDry on Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7413
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
What was your chamber size to start with? Cutting .200 off a head is rather extreme. If your planning to put a turbo on later, it's ill-advised.

What is the bore size? 300 Ford valves are big enough to tag cylinder walls without large over-bores.

No, not the right plan. If your going to build a boost engine, build a boost engine. If your going to build NA, build NA. The parts don't interchange. A 500 CFM two barrel will be a fuel swilling pig on an NA motor when driven on the street.

2¢

CJ

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:05 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:37 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
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Thanks Ceej, sorry, I'm new at the muscle car scene. So I'm just going by what I hear and such. I want to get the head done with bigger valves, but right now the bore is stock, and I'm planning on keeping it that way until I decide its time to run over 10 p.s.i., what valves would you suggest? I was going to mill .200 to raise compression a little bit, but since I'm boosting later on, I agree it was a stupid idea. Any ideas about what size carb I should use as well?

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:18 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:37 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Car Model:
and also, REALLY stupid question, but how do I know which carb is on my engine? It's stock, and a 1965 225.

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7413
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Well, the 350 cfm would be a good place. Are you stuck on the supersix intake?

Which comp cam? the 252S or the 264S? I don't remember the lift numbers for those. Thought they were roughly the same.

If your going to bore 0.060" or bigger, the Ford valves will work, otherwise, Engnbldr valves on ebay would be a better choice for a smaller bore.

Make sure you mock the head onto the block with the rotating assembly out to verify the chamber alignment over the bores!

Since your going with boost later, and targeting over 7#, you should be looking at Forged pistons. You can get away with cast if your tune is perfect, but in the real world, give your engine as many chances as you can to live. The pistons need to be designed for boost. If the top ring is too close to the face of the piston, disaster awaits.

10# into 3.55 gears, assuming we're talking an 8-3/4 should knock the tires loose rather handily. Your going to want a locker to pop the rear loose and keep it there once you get spinning. Not sure about the sure-grip working well in that mode. Likely have just enough differential action to keep trying to straighten out due to the weight of the car, and the lack of a Big power plant. At speed, I'm not sure how the bigger car will behave when trying to drift. Subframe connectors should help a lot. Your going to want to stiffen up the suspension. Get tires on there with as little sidewall compliance as possible, otherwise, they are likely to nickname you lurch. :lol:

Stock carb should be a Holley 1920. Not entirely sure though. Better question for Dan.

CJ

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Oops! missed one!

Until you have a turbo on there, 2.5" exhuast is too big. Your going to kill your engine's scavenging. 2-1/4" max. Install the 2.5 head pipe after you turbocharge.

CJ

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:42 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:37 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Car Model:
I have the suspension sorted out, 1.00 torsion bars with mopar performance sway bars in the back and front, stock leaf springs with 2 added leafs and de-arched 2 1/2 inches, and homemade subframe connectors, basically copying the hotchkis design. Wheels are 15" x 7 1/2" diamond racing steelies (they have beadlock on them to make sure no tires "slip" off :wink: ) with 50 profile tires, width will change because I will be using whatever tires I can find. What do you mean by locker? and the cam is the 264.

Thanks,
Ryan.

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
A locker makes the rear a live axle under power, or with the push of a button. An air locker of some sort could be your friend. If your one legged, getting the rear to pop loose could be a chore. With street rubber, once you get them hot, they'll get slicker as you burn them. Race compounds get sticky, street tires turn to grease. Sounds like you've got the tires and suspension figured out. 50's would be about minimum. I think Josh had 45's on his road car. Nifty setup. He went with a small four barrel. It stomped pretty well, though he was trying to keep it hooked up, not looking out the sidewindow to get where he was going! :lol:

CJ

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:57 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:37 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Car Model:
The locker sounds expensive! haha, what about if I run 4.10 gearing? Would that help at all? I imagine 4.10 and a sure grip would be fine. Most tires I'll be using will be worn down, and I forgot to mention that I'll be using a hydraulic e-brake setup to initial going sideways... Sorry!

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 4:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
What rear axle do you have under that car?

CJ

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:36 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:37 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Car Model:
8 3/4 open diff, 2.76 gears

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:38 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:37 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Car Model:
And also, has anyone tried the 5.0 fox body mustang valves? They are 1.78 and 1.48, would that be too big for the stock bore? I feel like the engine builder valves will not make that much of a difference. Also, should I not have a bigger than stock exhaust valve if I have a turbo? That would help spool faster correct?

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car


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