On an electric assist choke will the choke work like a mechanical choke if you take away the electricity or does it have to have it to work........I'm thinking the heat should open and close choke spring like one without electric assist......?

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1964 Dodge Dart 270 four door. Three speed automatic 225 Slant with a Carter BBS carb.

That is exactly how the choke thermostat worked in the 60s through the very early 70s- manifold heat only and no electric assist. However, the electric assist saves gas and decreases warm up time, so why would you disable one? Further, a choke thermostat designed to operate with electric assist might not open fully unless the electric assist is present.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks Reed, my car originally came with just a mechanical choke, the exhaust was replaced when the motor was rebuilt and it now has electric assist. I think maybe its wired up wrong because the choke opens up very quick, also it it possible to cause problems with my electric circuits by being wired wrong. This is why I considered unhooking it from the electrical circuit if that makes sense......

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1964 Dodge Dart 270 four door. Three speed automatic 225 Slant with a Carter BBS carb.

The electric assist choke does open up much faster than the heat actuated only choke. Personally, I would leave the electric assist intact. If memory serves, the (+) for the choke assist should have a little resistor in-line with the feed and the (+) is tapped into one of the alternator field wires so it is a switched feed.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

OK, I'll have to check my wiring as I don't recall seeing a resistor any where....I just want it to work correctly and not cause any problems.....thanks Reed....

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1964 Dodge Dart 270 four door. Three speed automatic 225 Slant with a Carter BBS carb.

Hi all,

This thread is 8 months old, so I hope nobody minds if I hijack/resurrect it. I am trying to correctly hook up my electric choke assist. The choke coil that I'm currently using is not original to my engine (a 1967 225 cid); I only installed it when I converted to the 2-bbl carb. Here's what I've got:



My choke freely closes and opens, as it should. However, after recently installing an O2 sensor and A/F ratio gauge, I'm seeing that the choke is staying closed way longer than it needs to. Presumably, this is because I never attached the wire to anything (lame, I know). I've located a wiring diagram for a 1976 Volare (which is where I believe my choke came from), but it's not much use - it refers to an "electric choke control", which I don't believe my car has:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1976/76VolareA.JPG

Earlier in this thread, Reed mentioned he thought there should be a resistor somewhere in this line. Is this absolutely necessary, or can I just connect this wire to a source that's hot when the engine is on? Should it be fused?

As always, any help is be much appreciated.

Roger

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The two barrel carb was not available in 76. The "Super Six" package was first available in 77.

The electric choke control is the resistor. The electric choke assist (the wire you didn't hook up) is necessary to get the choke to open sooner. As you have already determined, the choke stays closed too long without it. If my memory is correct the (+) feed for the electric choke assist is spliced into one of the blue alternator feed wires on the factory harness. Whatever wire you use, it should be a witched (+) feed.

The resistor slowed the opening of the choke a bit. You may be fine without it. Try it and see if your choke opens too quickly. If it does, then you may need to install a small resistor. I am pretty sure I have a few extra factory resistors in my garage.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks for the correction. The 1976 wiring diagram was the most-recent year listed on the MyMopar site.
So, it sounds like a resistor just reduces the amount of current in the wire? I'll try hooking it up without one. I live in a very mild climate, so I don't think it will be a problem if it opens quickly. I mainly just need the choke when starting, and it doesn't take long at all before I can run with it open.

Thanks, Reed. I'll let you know what happens.

Roger

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Yes a resistor slows choke opening. Also Holley and other manufactures use a thermistor, a solid state device, which reacts to temperature that acts as a variable resistor to slow or speed up pull off by reading head temperature to accomplish the same task.

You may want to power that choke with a relay powered from battery (lug at starter relay) triggered by tapping into ignition circuit. I found when electric choke was powered from ignition circuit (blue wire) I experienced a voltage drop due to creating a parallel path to ground causing over charging of battery.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks, wjajr.

After some reflection, I'm not entirely comfortable with simply attaching this to a switched hot lead. I don't know much about electricity, but I'm thinking if the factory put a resistor there, it must have been there for a reason. I just don't want to overheat or burn up my present choke. Unfortunately, I've been searching on-line and I'm unable to find any reference to the so-called "electric choke control" in the '76 Volare schematic, referenced above. RockAuto shows the choke spring itself, which they call the "carburetor choke thermostat":

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... 2BPLYMOUTH

but I can't find an "electric choke control". I was hoping to learn what it does, and perhaps try to create something that will do the same thing. As long as I have a simple schematic, I know which end of a soldering iron to hold - lol!; I just don't have the knowledge of electrical principles to design it myself.

Does anyone happen to know how much current (volts, amps, whatever) the electric choke thermostat is supposed to receive?

Roger

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You know, much better than trying to track down hard-to-find original parts that weren't the best design to begin with, why not upgrade to a NEW and BETTER system? See here: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12996

I installed one of those on my brother 83 Dodge van that is equipped with a 225 and a Holley 2280 (like Fab64) and the electric choke conversion has worked flawlessly for the last few years. Much better than the stock parts and it is adjustable.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Uh, yeah, that's probably a better idea - sometimes I tend to overlook the obvious. Thanks for the link. Did kit #1232 work correctly on your Holley 2280?

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It worked beautifully. I had to bend the mounting bracket a very tiny bit, but otherwise it was a very simple and worthwhile upgrade. In my opinion it just isn't worth trying to fix the factory chokes. They are obsolete and difficult to find parts for.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Excellent, thanks for the tip - I just ordered one by phone.

Roger

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Good idea. You won't regret it.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.